Can you get the bearing out of the arm? It will have a part number on it, if not, you should be able to measure major diameter, width, hole diameter and source one from a bearing supplier. Not too expensive either!
Complete arm for it was only £6.77 on ebay so not the end of the world. Bearing had no numbers on at all. Had a clearout of the garage again so there was space for the bug parts that were stored in the westy. Stuck one of the wings on the shell to keep it off the floor. Quite tidy under here. Both wings now loosely fitted. Still had to put the other 2 wings and valance int he back as there wasn't space to put them on the car. Had the rivet on the 1/4 window snap as it was always tight to open. Must have been seized. My spare is 120 miles away in my parents loft.
Cleaned the underseal off one side of the floorpan this afternoon. Stinking awful job. So glad it was done with the pan standing up against the wall and not lying underneath it. No unexpeceted new holes which is always nice.
Got the other side of the pan cleaned up. Still needs the rotten jacking point removing and a repair let into the pan above it.
Chopped off the rotten jacking point. Just a the end of the rear crossmember to repair and a small bit of floorpan to weld in.
Managed to get one part of the floorpan welded in this afternoon while the westy was still out of the drive. Some big ass 8mm plug welds every 3/4". Ground down and propped back up against the wall just as the drizzle set in.
Slapped a bit of grey oxide primer on the underside this afternoon. Then 10 minutes later it was dry enough to push it back the other way and put some on the inside.
Made a wee bracket for the leccy windscreen washer motor. Can't put my hand on any of the small drill bits i possess so can't fit it.
Some solid metal welded into the rotten corner above the old jacking point. I also made the missing heater conduits for the rear footwell vents from a length of B&Qs finest 10mm steel tube.
Got the rest of the pan cleaned up and rust cured this afternoon. Cleaned off all weld areas ready for welding in the section of pan the pedals fit to. Sweated buckets as it was 24C and muggy as hell in the garden though. Remember when Veng was a name to cause grown men to cry? Just used part of an old panel on my bug and it was good thickness steel, had nice detailed pressings and was a pretty decent panel all told. There was no surface rust under the transit primer like some of the klokkerholm panels too.
Finally got the major welding finished on the floorpan today. Just the accelerator mount to weld on when the postie delivers it. Welded the rear heater outlet conduits into place. Coat of grey oxide primer, seam sealer then black Gravitex stonechip and a nice shiny gloss black topcoat next. About £60 worths of grommets, seals and gearbox mounts need buying before i can bolt in the suspension and trans though, plus i need to make up a set of kunifer brake pipes and get a new master cylinder too.
Gave the underside a coat of grey oxide primer: Seam sealed it all after it was dry. Found all the bits of the pedals in the bottom of the shed where they'd escaped to after the carrier bag they were in biodegraded. The other mount and the arm are somewhere 'safe'. In other words i have no bloody idea. Pedals seem to fit and the accelerator pedal appears to be in the right place too which is nice.
Couple of coats of gravitex stone chip on the framehead and rear framehorns. Flipped over and some shot on the underside too. Nice finish. Gonna give it a coat or two of gloss chassis black next.
Bought mysefl a brake pipe flaring tool off the Bay of E as it works out much cheaper to make my own using Kunifer pipe than to get them made up at my local garage. Makes double and single flares. The single one comes out even nicer if the pipe is debured first.
Underside of pan and frame horns painted in satin black chassis black. Gonna give the underside another coat i think. Topside painted in chassis black. Repair to corner above jacking point turned out OK.
Nice work I'm in the process of replacing the passenger side floorpan on our 69 build 70 model 1300 but I've still got the body on.
@Zebedee looks really nice I'm just sat watching the bug me videos as I'm contemplating taking the body off mine the A posts need replacing and I would like to check the chassis out and paint it for extra rustproofing.
Weld a couple of lengths of angle across the door posts between A-B, A-A and B-B (creating a box) if your door gaps are fine and the doors fit correctly as everything moves once its not bolted to the chassis, especially if you're cutting out the A pillar bottoms. Don't buy the cheap klokkerholm A pillar repairs too as they don't fit. The autocraft and hookys ones are a perfect fit for not that much cash more. Its nice when you get to the point that theres no more rust, fresh paint everywhere and are getting ready to reassemble everything.
My door gaps are pants at the moment so not sure which way to go with I may repair the A posts whilst it's on the chassis then remove to clean up and paint we will see
