losing power under load

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Carryoncampers, Mar 24, 2017.

  1. So how do you listen for leaks using WD40? Does the engine change speed if the carb takes it in?
    Ta!
     
  2. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    Yes
     
    Carryoncampers likes this.
  3. OK, been away for a week, now back to it...
    I've replaced the RH inlet manifold gasket. (And whilst at it found most of the spark plugs had loosened on the ends - those funny add-ons that you need with some HT leads - hope tightening them will help). Have put the linkage back on but find that I can't get the throttle set right.
    It is exactly right for shut off but when the pedal's to the metal the carbs are nowhere near fully open.
    Can't find anything in the dellorto book saying how to adjust for this. It wasn't far out before I took it to pieces so I can't work out what the problem is.
    Btw, yes I have put the hex arm back at the same angle as before.
    Help....?
     
  4. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]

    You need to adjust the length of travel from the pedal end.
    A lot of people add a bracket to the linkage under the floor by the throttle pedal.
     
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  5. Thanks Baysearcher. So now I've had a closer look at the front end I see the accelerator pedal linkage is pretty worn. It kind of goes sideways rather than vertically downwards, and is certainly not giving full throttle, so I've ordered a new pushrod and will fix that before I go any further...
    Apart from that, could you direct me to a picture of the bracket you mention, so I can have a think about what to do?
    Many thanks.
     
    Last edited: Apr 12, 2017
  6. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]

    There'll be a picture on here somewhere mate.
    You just need a piece of flat bar to drill some holes in.
     
  7. OK Cheers.
     
  8. Last edited: Apr 12, 2017
  9. No, I don't think so. The Buttys Bits modified ones are longer than standard - the extra holes are in metal that you don't have on a standard part.
     
  10. I bought a buttys one and will fit it at some point but I extended the original one simply by bolting a longer arm onto the existing one utilising the hole for the cable and another hole further down to stop it rotating. Has worked for years. Not even sure where I stashed the buttys one now!
     
  11. You'd think so wouldn't you but it arrived today and it's exactly the same size as the original, but with two extra holes! Hrrmph!
    At least I now have something perfect to lash onto the original...
     
  12. Well, I've fixed any vacuum leaks as far as I can tell, more or less balanced the carbs - certainly no worse than they used to be. Swapped the accuspark dissy back to the one I used to use today.
    The problem is STILL there going up hill.
    You can accelerate as well as I've ever known on the flat, - it feels and sounds well tuned - it should do after all this! - but start up a hill and when you change to 2nd it starts to be duff and when you go into third it gets very duff. The only way I can successfully get up a local steep hill is if the road is clear enough for me to take a "run up" and be going fast before I get to it!

    Could it be the clutch???
    I've tried everything you've all suggested except the compression test - which I will do when I get a chance. Oh and the electric fuel pump - but it sounds healthy. And I will change the spark plugs... (But it's healthy on the flat)
    Just to recap: have swapped coil, oil service, changed fuel filters, checked (and still checking) carbs, upped regulator to 3.5, swapped dissy.
    Thank you all for your input.
     
  13. Same symptons when my clutch started to slip.
     
  14. do the revs not rise as the power goes? Classic slipping clutch.
     
  15. Fuel pump i reckon. If it was clutch youd notice it overreving
     
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  16. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    You did set the timing at low idle , so that the advance you see is the end stop on the distributor, not e.g. 5 degrees of centrifugal advance + 2.5 degrees of static timing.?
    This can be very dead, and easy to do when the carburettors are not set up quite right with too much air flow at throttle closed. My progressive is a right git for doing this, as its throttle end stop works in tiny fractions of a turn making all the dffference between 850 and 1200 rpm.
     
    Flakey likes this.
  17. I agree. My bus lost power, checked everything except fuel pump pressure, which it was.
     
    Carryoncampers likes this.
  18. Thanks. I set it at 32 at high revs.
     
  19. I know! You've said that all along. I suppose it's the next thing to purchase! Mine is a Facet Cube. I'll look into replacing it.
    Also, I've always used one of those plastic fuel filters between the tank and the Facet, which also has its own.
    It was set up like that when I bought the van. Do I need the plastic one as well or should I remove it? I have recently replaced it and I did wonder whether the openings were rather narrow, but since they have always worked fine I decided not to alter anything.
     

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