Leisure battery charger and 12v supply

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Pudelwagen, Sep 16, 2014.

  1. I've been trawling through lots of posts on this subject and am coming to the conclusion that the best option is either a Amperor MV3/180 18 amp charger at about 70 quid or a CTEK MKS 25 25 amp charger at around 200.

    Both of these, I assume, will charge the leisure battery and provide sufficient current to power a 12V fridge, lighting etc while on hookup.

    Anyone know the pros and cons of these units or does anyone have a better system (don't mention the Z word!).
  2. I have a CTEK MXS7.0 and that quite happily powers my fridge, lights, 12v sockets and trickle charges the leisure battery with what's left.
  3. Snap
  4. CTEK MXS 7.0 here too 25 amp would seem like a lot.
  5. Nothing wrong with Zig units....:D
    bought mine for £15....works perfectly and matches the bus:thumbsup:
  6. I’ve used an Amperor MV3/180 for a few years now, plenty of power to recharge the leisure battery when you’ve not been on a hook-up for few days and power the fridge, lights, etc. In my opinion the CTEK MXS7.0 isn’t powerful enough and the higher power output version is a silly price.
  7. sANDYbAY

    sANDYbAY On benefits-won't sponsor!

    Yup, me too with no problem. We also run a TV and propex and never had a problem on hookup.
  8. That's rather a sweeping statement and will very much depend upon the power needs of whatever equipment is fitted to a particular bus. You do the sums and work out what your power needs are before deciding how powerful your supply needs to be. Surely that is the best way of selecting the best unit for your bus?
  9. rickyrooo1

    rickyrooo1 Hanging round like a bad smell

    i run the c-tek 7 too, runs fridge propex lights radio no problem, not really sure if it "keeps up" with demand during useage but it then tops up the battery in the day if the lights/propex etc isn't on so i'm happy.
  10. Good thread, it occured to me today that I should have a battery charger and a hook-up lead. I def don't want 240V sockets, but I'm sick of killing batteries and being completely power free.
  11. rickyrooo1

    rickyrooo1 Hanging round like a bad smell

    bit daft having hook up costs on site and not getting your moneys worth though?
  12. Batteries cost money and I can kill one in 2 weekends. I'm on 1 battery a year, but only because I'm a scrooge, I spend most of the year trying not to use anything or forgetting to bring the battery at all (several times,before anyone mentions that!). A few quid for a hook-up to power an installed charger looks good right now.
  13. I think he means it's daft not to have a (concealed) 13A socket, if you're going to the bother of installing a hook-up.
    You could then eg use a fan heater instead of your gas/petrol heater, run a fridge on mains rather than gas, etc.
  14. WHS @zed . You dont have to go daft with big consumer units and all that palarver - you can keep it small and simple (and discreet). Fan heater will save you some hassle or just run the eber as long as you want. Im going leccy blanket for mains hook ups! warm and toasty and quiet!
    Merlin Cat likes this.
  15. Forgot to ask - you using an auxiliary battery as well as your van battery. If so you using a standard car battery or a leisure battery. I used to use a standard lead acid battery and never had many issues. Leisure battery dies at regular intervals. perhaps I should invest in a good one again but the lucas one i have isnt holding charge as id expect and theres nothing worse than your heater packing in due to low volts just when you need it!
  16. Thanks for your input guys. The ctek 7amp looks neat but an 85w fridge draws just over 7 amps. With lights etc, isn't this pushing it to its limit? I don't want the thing overheating and cutting out!
  17. It's a proper leisure battery. I used to use a starter battery and had no problems, but then I only ran a light off it.
  18. Sorry, wasn't knocking Zigs. I just don't want a big control panel on the wall.
  19. They can save a lot of messing about with local fuses and using them tends to reduce volt drop issues to appliances as they are all wired back independantly to the same point.
    SeanOC likes this.

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