Late bay Gti conversion

Gearbox filled, comma GL4 from wilko at £4 a litre will do me






Fuel tank back in for 4th time, secondary outlet fitted





Just tidying up and move my old fuel tank to hear a right rattle. Tip out the contents to find these three parts





Any clues as to what they are?

Please don’t tell me they are part of the fuel sender and I’ve got to have that smegging fuel tank out again


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look the parts from a fuel cap, the inner part

 

Thank god for that, probably been in there for 20 years!

 

i might be wrong but it looks like that to me.

 

Braved the cold and fit the flywheel, torqued up the flywheel bolts and set about fitting the clutch




Only go find that the good eBay seller has sent me a 228mm clutch rather than a 215. Note to self, don’t buy parts 6 months in advance meaning you can’t return them...




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Hello, I've had an 8v 1.6 Audi 80 engine in my bay for over 7 years now, so really appreciating your work
Can i ask how your gear linkage works using a T25 box in a late bay as it's a mod i'm waiting to do.
Also, installed mine at the factory 15 degrees with no clearance issues.
My fuel supply was provided with a mk3 golf gti fuel pump/gauge sender unit fitted inside the original tank by bolting/sealing in an adapter flange.
If i can share my experiences and help in anyway, i will

 

The linkage was fitted by the last owner, the gearstick has been removed and the whole T25 stick and housing has been cut into the cab floor.

The linkage rods look have been cut and welded to shorten them, it’s a bit heath Robinson but it works fine.

Only problem it gives me is that it takes up a large part of the middle of the floor underneath which is where I need to fit a radiator

Where is your radiator fitted Klunk?


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Pictures speak quite a few words

 

Looks very neat, assume the scoop goes to a sealed air box and the fan pulls air through too?

 

What engine going in ?

 

Yes spot on, the scoop is sealed/close fit to the top of the radiator, was going to fit a lower cover so it creates a venturi effect and drag the air through like the bottom plastic engine tray on say an audi a4 but after over 7 years, never had a cooling issue. Radiator if I remember correctly is a VW caddy radiator part number 6k0 121 253 AA, fan is now 1J0 959 455 which I think is a mk4 golf part, I changed to this fan as the connecting plug is on a fly lead where the old polo fan plug stuck down a bit and looked a bit vulnerable. Fan switch in the radiator is part number 893 959 481 which switches at 95 degrees.
A useful website for radiator sizes I used was aaron radiators I think.
Hope this helps, luckily I found a notebook I kept with certain info in

 

The engine that went in and is still in, is a 1.6 multipoint fuel injection inline 4 cylinder from a 95 audi 80, engine code ADA 101bhp, but I'm hoping to be swapping for a slightly detuned but more low down torque engine from a mk3 golf in the shape of a 1.8 single point injection engine code ABS with 90bhp but IIRC 145nm torque at 2500rpm where the audi engine was 125nm at 3700rpm.

 

Ah, you got me there, i was about to get my protractor out on my engine frame before the penny dropped

 

Warmed up a bit so ventured outside.



Tapped the spigot bearing into place.



Opened up my shiny new clutch and fitted the release bearing



Before I knew it the friction plate was on






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Then it was time to put on the smooth music and let two become one...



Fitted the starter - pretty sure this won’t fit and will foul the cross brace beneath the fuel tank but we’ll see



It’s now very heavy, took some effort to wrench it under the van




Dragged the crane back round and lifted it somewhere near where it will live




Up and down she went 5 times.
- starter does foul
- need to jack the gearbox up and check the nose mount


Has anyone got any tips for lifting a complete engine and box level? Hurt me back forcing stuff into place and sulked back into the house


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Hello there, I normally put the box in first with the bellhousing end resting on some timber across two axle stands. Then lift the engine up to it. My gearbox is a standard 3 rib box, standard starter motor, then i used a t25 diesel flywheel with the ring gear from a type 4 engine flywheel which was a direct fit to the diesel flywheel. Been fine for over 7 years.

 

Just had a little thought, dangerous i know!! I'm sure i've read somewhere that the bell housing from a non-diesel gearbox (starter in the normal position instead of on top) can be swapped onto the diesel box if that would help. Please confirm this elsewhere first
Is your gearbox a four or five speed? I've also read (on VWKD i think) that the 5 speed boxes are a bit weaker and the 5th gear is the same ratio as a 4th in a 4 speed box. Sorry if this adds confusion! I'm hoping to upgrade to 6 a rib box myself, taller diff ratio so each gear will be taller than my 3 rib box. Problem with a 6 rib box is the price! so i've gathered a early (air-cooled) t25 6 rib box which apparently has the same diff ratios but i will have to work out a neat gear change solution, ie the selector rod is on the side of the gearbox, but further towards the front of the box compared to your box. Another little job....

 

Cheers klunk

The petrol bell housing doesn't fit to the golf engine, it's bolt pattern is for the flat four engines so that's a no go I'm afraid.

4 and 5 speed boxes are the same strength - 1st in a 5 speed is a crawler gear really for pulling off when fully loaded.
You are right that the bay 2.0 6 rib is the box to go for as its stronger than 3 rib and better ratios.
4 and 5 speed boxes from t25's come in different ratios so you need to look for the lowest ratio you can find, the AAP code I'm using is like hens teeth as it was the lowest ratio available and only fitted to 2.1 caravelles.

The t25 box I've got is side shift rather than nose shift (like a bay) so it has the t25 shifter and linkage grafted in under the floor. Problem is this is exactly where is want to mount a radiator.

If I had my time again I would go 2.0 l 6 rib bay box and keep the nose shift arrangement. Annoyingly this would have been fitted to my van is it was originally a 2.0 injection flat 4 engine but that was already gone when I bought it.

 

Haha hindsight is a wonderful thing! I know i made my engine adapter plate myself (when i used to work where they had the facilities) due to the expense of them commercially. If i remember correctly, the adapter plate i made was 25mm thick but i still had to make a spacer to bring the flywheel 10mm further out, i know it sounds daft but it meant the starter lined up with the ring gear, the clutch release bearing was right with the pressure plate, and the 3 rib input shaft sat correctly in the spigot bearing. Are the readily available adapter plates still expensive? What option are you going to take regarding the starter fouling?