larger sump/best way to cool oil

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by simmo111, Feb 19, 2012.

  1. Can anybody recommend a larger sump, theres a few out there from £50-£150
     
  2. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I can recommend saving your money for ice cream. :)
     
  3. Spend the money on beer and fags :). A bigger sump isn't going to do much for you.
     
  4. Honky

    Honky Administrator

    What engine do you have?
     
  5. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    one of the Directors at work runs a 71 bay with a 2332 type1 motor, he swears by the deep sump - I think he has a Scat one fitted, the motor was built by a guy called ... Jarvis (??) who races Beetles, the sump was part of the build.
    He did say the downside is that he sometimes has issues with the oil pressurising the case but he thinks it could be an oil presure relief valve being set a little on the high side
     
  6. Out of interest why do you want a larger sump?
     
  7. Birdy

    Birdy Not Child Friendly

    If he's running a 2332cc T1 engine I'm not surprised he rates it. 2.5 litres in an engine that size is not a lot.

    As Zed has said but I suggest on camping equipment like the mini oven-pot that Hippyrich used at the last TLB Winter Camp. Far more useful.
     
  8. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

     
  9. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    If you have external coolers and filters and oil is going to run back into the sump when you switch off, a deep sump is essential as you can use too much of the traditional 2.5l filling these things up again.

    I assume as you're asking, you don't have a monster nutter engine with one of everything oil related plumbed in.

    Costs more to change the oil as well.
     
  10. Me? No just a standard 2ltr.

    Cheers for clearing it up though.
     
  11. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

     
  12. Its a 1776cc
     
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  14. Well thats saved me at least £50 then, the only reason I was going to do it was to aid with the cooling of the oil, but if it doesn't help or i don't need it then i wont bother, the engine will be a 1776cc with CB performance crank, Engle 110 cam, DRD heads with 40mm inlet 35.5 exhaust, scat pro comp rockers 1:25, with longer push rods and twin 40 carbs to finish or 44's, Do i need to be concerned with the cooling of the oil if so what is the best way to go.
     
  15. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I'll be building something similar later in the year. Personally I'm keeping the cooling standard, but I will be fitting oil temp guage to see what happens. And while I'm building I'll be drilling tapping the case so I can add a cooler if it's needed. If not I'll plumb in a filter in a way that the oil stays in the filter when it's off and I only have the pipe contents to take into account. If I add a cooler as well I realise I may have to add an extra sump, but I hope not.
    I think you'll get as many different replies to this question as there are configurations for your engine. Good luck - in the end it's going to up to you to decide.
     
  16. cheers zed
     
  17. I have a 1776 with standard heads, cam, etc, the only thing different from a stock engine is the size of the cylinders. Mine is tapped for full flow and has an external filter on it, I have an old subaru oil cooler sat in my shed if I should need it, but I haven't so far. Good fitting tins and the reinstatement of flaps (which I'm doing at the moment) should see me right on the cooling side.
     
  18. do you have any photos
     
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  20. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    We have a remote oil cooler on the westy, the most we have seen it read is 220'F (104'C) climbing up from Brizzle to Birmingham last summer, on an average run it tends to sit around 98'C
     

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