Interior upgrade for my t2

Make sure you degrease the surface first or it wont take. I did the floor and cab of my last bus in smoothrite and it lasted well. Others will advise rustoleum, which you can get colour matched to the standard paint i believe. Never used it but loads on here have with good results.

 

Ok good advice. I wouldn't know what colour to match to so I'll just go for white!
What product can I use to degrease?

 

Good question. I just usually wip down with thinners but thats because i have, or had a gallon of the stuff kicking around. White spirit might do for wiping down but there might be something a lot cheaper.

@paradox ... this is your kinda question really!

 

If it's white, it's most likely pastel white L90D.
You can get this in a number of guises including rustoleum (Avenue Coatings, Slough).

 

White spirit works for me with tractor enamel

 

My 2p....

Don't use hammerite of any description.
Its not like it used to be & is a bugger to paint over, and its sheitee
Wire brush off the rust, de-grease ( white spirit / thinners on a rag for the inside should do) & paint with bonda primer using a brush, top coat if you wish.
Cavity wax the inside of the panels, you can get it in aerosol cans. Dinitrol gets good reviews

 

inside which panels?

 

inside the side panels, behind the interior panels & insulation, condensation will run down & pool.
read this >>>>>
http://www.justkampers.com/jkblog/p...lot-of-money-and-very-little-of-your-time-115

 

For derusting try Fertan, it turns the rust black and doesn't necessarily need painting over http://www.fertan.co.uk/index.htm
As you're not using a compressor try Bilt Hamer in an aerosol for cavity protection (VW vans not teeth) http://www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/dynax-s50
I've not used them but a builder friend swears by them for cleaning, removing anything including silicone, Wonder Wipes http://www.everbuild.co.uk/wonder-wipes

Good luck.

 

Thanks for the links 77Westy.

Extract from the pdf, it seems the minimum requirements are:
In order for a converted vehicle to qualify as a motor caravan it must have certain minimum features, as follows:
 a door that provides access to the living accommodation
 a bed, which has a minimum length of 1800mm or 6 feet. This can be converted from seats used for other purposes during the day but must be permanently fixed within the body of the vehicle
 a water storage tank or container on, or in, the vehicle
 a seating and dining area, permanently attached to the vehicle. The table may be detachable but must have some permanent means of attachment to the vehicle. It is not good enough to have a loose table
 a permanently fixed means of storage, a cupboard, locker or wardrobe
 a permanently fixed cooking facility within the vehicle, powered by gas or electricity
 at least one window on the side of the accommodation.
If the vehicle has all of these features present, permanently fixed and installed properly, then it is a legal requirement to have it reclassified as a motor caravan on the V5C.
No requirement for a sink.

Mine's pretty minimal :
a door, (permanent!)
a rock & roll bed, (permanent)
water storage (plastic 4 gallon container),
seating and dining (rock&roll bed), (permanent)
a table - Reimo sliding rail (permanaent). Folding leg and table top removable.
storage - locker under bed (permanent)
cooking - small camping stove, not yet permanent
window - originally a microbus so many, many side windows

V5C shows Motor Caravan and it's insured as such.
Innovative suggestions as to how to make the camping stove a permanent but unobtrusive feature? Fix it to a point in the locker with a long length of chain?

 

I "Guess" as long as there is a stove inside you could still call it a permanent feature? It doesnt specify it has to be fixed?

If you have a camper then you are allowed to drive at 70mph on dual carriageways / motorways....
If you have a van or bus - 60mph

Don't get caught speeding, if they do you for 80 mph (unlikely in a T2 admitedly) then you are 20 mph over the limit, not 10.....

 

The DVLA state that the cooking facilities must be secured directly to the vehicle floor or side wall and must be either bolted, riveted, screwed or welded.

 

Thats that out the window then... perhaps you could fold away a cooker like a westy? Screw it onto a fold out cupboard...

 

Yeah I agree with you.

My Devon would originally have had a removable cooker, but was still a camper.

I think these regs are for people converting vans as they state: a permanently fixed cooking facility within the vehicle, powered by gas or electricity

 

A converted vehicle is one (usually but not always a panel van) that has had certain items installed in accordance with the DVLA requirements to make it into campervan/mobile home/motor caravan. If some or all of those items have been removed it is no longer a campervan/mobile home/motor caravan, even if it left the factory as one because it has been converted into something else.

But who is going to check? Individuals within the DVLA will have different opinions, the Police won’t have a clue - if it looks like something you might sleep in it must be a campervan – VOSA are unlikely to carry out an inspection and insurers will probably have different interpretations of what a campervan is.

As Dicky said earlier this is one of those things that doesn't matter until it does matter.

 

With the possible exception of Vw panel van owners I really don't think this is anything any of us need to worry about.

If you camp In your van it's a camper van, regardless if the cooker has been removed!

If any of you ever find yourself in court over this matter I'll confidently represent you for free. I'm not a solicitor etc

 

Really useful article - thankyou. I feel like I'm starting to understand things abit better reading all the responses here.

Question/problem: I'm insulating with silent coat and then dodo matting (not ordered yet so open to change if need be). Apparantly you are meant to have a clean surface to apply these. They advise against applying insulation on top of waxoil type products. So... if I'm spraying into the cavities and a little way up on the doors, then (apparently) the silent coat won't stick properly? They say I can spray over the insulation - but can't see how that's gona help if it's already stuck on? Does anyone have experience of this?

 

So you put the bonda primer over the entire floor and panels? Or just the floor? Or just little areas here and there?

Dinitrol seems to be better for old metalwork...it's winning my vote at mo