What are your thoughts on the best way to insulate your buses,which closed cell foam or foil bubble do you recommend?looked at dodo mat,seems you are required to use a combination of their products.definitely need to quieten the engine area,thanks. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
A new engine made a lot of difference to mine Ripped out that flammable perforated hardboard and fibre. Put 20mm engine bay muffler stuff in the top engine hatch and used tar-backed stuff on the engine door and ‘roof’. Also put a few pieces of the tar backed stuff on each of the large panels I could reach - doors and cab floor etc. All seemed to help reduce noise a little. Can’t remember the brand! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thanks,I’ll probably keep the engine as it is for now.There’s a lot of the black foam stuff on the market but it’s a job to know which ones are any good without paying silly money Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Silent Coat. Here’s what they suggested: ‘Thanks for the enquiry. We can thoroughly recommend Silent Coat 2mm mat for all areas of your VW Camper. A popular variation is to double up the 2mm on just the very noisy areas eg engine cover etc. Applying the product in this way makes it very economical with excellent results. Closed Cell Foam is the way to go for all areas that are likely to get wet and we recommend that you apply this procuct as a secondary stage directly over the Silent Coat 2mm mat. Buffler is Fire retardant and a good choice for the engine bay. I have reproduced our standard Type2 VW advice below which provides detailed guidance if you want to give the vehicle the full comprehensive treatment ! We recommend for your Camper a 2 stage treatment. Applying one product and then another product over the top, here's the 2 stage process: Stage 1) Treat the metal body panels with Silent Coat 2mm Mat to reduce panel resonance and body boom. Use on all metal panels up to 50% coverage for most cost effective results, or 100% for a fully comprehensive job. For your Camper we recommend 1-2 Bulk Packs. This product can be used on any metal panel in your vehicle, with the most common areas to treat being the floors, doors, sides, wheel arches, roof and bulkhead. http://www.deadening.co.uk/products/silent-coat-2mm-deadening-mat Stage 2) Use these products straight over the 2mm you have just applied. These tackle airbourne noise that is not directly affected by the body panels. Rear Deck/Bulkhead; Use Dodo Pro Barrier MLV, this is a barrier treatment to block unwanted noise intrusion into the cabin from outside. 100% coverage is recommended for the affected areas. Use this product to treat the boot and cabin floor to help block road, exhaust noise and tyre roar. We predict you will need approximately 4-5 sheets of this product. http://www.deadening.co.uk/products/dodo-pro-barrier-mlv Doors, sides & roof; Use Silent Coat Isolator, this is a special formulation closed cell foam with excellent thermal and acoustic properties ideal to reduce noise, insulate the vehicle and to isolate barriers and trim panels. We predict you will need up to 10 sheets of this product. http://www.deadening.co.uk/products/silent-coat-isolator-6-large-sheet or http://www.deadening.co.uk/products/silent-coat-isolator-10-large-sheet We have estimated the quantities for you, however for these stage 2 products we'd recommend having a measure up to determine the correct amount needed. We suggest applying stage 2 products like a blanket, covering 100% of the panel. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
once you've rollered on the silent coat over the engine area (inside the bus) then closed cell foam (camping mats are closed cell - shouldn't hold water), then put some mass loaded vinyl (MLV) on the horizontal bit . to be honest, any heavy vinyl will do; floor tiles, heavy duty vinyl flooring - it'll all make a difference
The silent coat sounds like good stuff,quite an expensive job I guess.thanks for the detailed instructions Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
