does that mean it'll of been reworked to hell and destined for scrap. I know I wont be able to tell until its split and measured. I thought they marked them in some way to tell how much machining they had done. its done 25000 mile with not to many problems. think the broke piston ring may have let some oil through.......................
No idea... tbh if it's done that many miles, it'll be one of the good ones!! But like you say, no way of knowing until you're inside of it!!
Have a look at your pully on the end of the crank; the spirally bit might be marked with its size. From memory (Zed told me what to look for) the sizing on the pully fluted area will tally up with the size of the line bore on the case
That's news to me Mark. Remanufacturers who face the case halves have to open out the pully bit by 0.5mm as well and then a different pully is needed, but as far as I'm aware there's no direct correlation between that and bore size.
Youre a bugger It was back when we had breathing issues/case pressurisation on the type 1 motor, when the pulley was leaking due to the pressure. Ok, I thought that the line bore, say you went +0.75 or +1.0mm with line boring resulted in having a +1mm oversized pulley - was consistent all the way through the case from pulley end to flywheel end & the size reflected this.
Is it me or has the piston in this pic got a bit burnt away on the edge? Piston on the rhs and damage towards the bottom of the pic Also is the barrel wall blue in colour?
Its hard to tell from pics If the barrel is blue and that bit has burnt away from the edge of the piston it would tie in with running lean due to the cracked inlet manifold
I'm not a bugger. You may well have had a machined case and an aftermarket pulley causing the oil loss. The pulley hole in the case is used to centralise the line boring bar so doesn't generally get bored, only if the case has been faced.
its oil that's sat on the barrel and the blue is the flash off the metal. I think that's the barrel that the ring was in 2 bits. I'll try and get some measurements of the con rod waggle for @Fish . do the long barrel bolts come out easy enough, ie, 2 nuts on the thread to lock them or is there a different way....
If you have a big end that has gone the piston hits the head, you cannot miss the marking on the piston. Were the head nuts tight? The cylinder head shows that there has been significant blow by, this will make a loud noise. Those pistons do not look very old. Hone and replace rings should be all that is needed there. Robert
hi robert there are no contact marks on the pistons, one broken piston ring. head nuts were tight. when you move conrods there is no movement up and down but as I've said in past the best I describe it is a "waggle" side to side, No4 piston rod feels more than the rest. the way I'm looking at it now I might go down the route of checking bottom end and sorting that then open up the top and going 1776 but like everyone didn't want to spend loads at this time of year on a new engine. rough ideas of costs would help me sweet talk the wife.
tonights episode.... tonight sneaked into the garage to measure amount of movement on con rod, I'm getting about 2mm "waggle" side to side. I removed a couple of con rods through the case to see how much damage has been done. think they must of been dry.. from this picture can any of you engine builders tell how much its been machined in the past cheers..
It is a std crank on the bigends and most likely the mains as well. They are very worn and a lot of rubbish is in the oil. The conrod does not look very good but it could be your camera.
