How to change your gearbox oil

Discussion in 'How To' started by Honky, Sep 14, 2011.

  1. Honky

    Honky Administrator

    You'll need a 17mm hex plug (some say 18mm).

    Firstly make sure you can undo the fill plug (don't take it out yet), because you don't want to empty it if you can't fill.

    Next make sure you can open the bottom plug (don't take it out yet).

    Assuming you can undo the plugs then take the van for a nice drive to warm up the gearbox oil so it will flow out better.

    On returning from your drive park on a firm level surface.

    Prepare yourself with a container suitable for collecting up to 3.5 litres of warm oil.

    Crack open the fill plug and remove and then the sump plug and let the oil drain out. It smells bad so you probably want to wear gloves and perhaps overalls.

    Once empty, replace the sump plug and refill with Hypiod EP80/90 gear oil until it flows from the fill hole.

    Replace the fill plug and away you go.
     
  2. Top tip:

    Use a hose pipe into the gearbox filler hole which you can hold from outside standing up (or get someone else to hold it and fill it slowly).

    Don't get a small hand pump thing, it takes ages. O0
     
  3. Changed my gearbox oil this morning and replaced with fully synthetic castrol syntrans 75w-90. The change not so stiff when cold now and feels much smoother. Definitely a job worth doing.
     
  4. Top tip :)

    Thanks for the advice, I need to
    Do this :)
     
  5. And what can you suggest one does if the drain plug won't move? Have tried several times to unfasten it with breaker bars help but no success. Might try an impact hammer next.
     
  6. I sprayed the bolts with WD40 left them for 15 mins then used a torque wrench as leverage to undo the bolts. Or you could use a spanner and place another on the end as extra leverage.
     
  7. Bolts?
     
  8. Honky

    Honky Administrator

     
  9. Important to know the difference between a plug and a bolt, though. Also a torque wrench should not be used as socket wrench/breaker bar as it will send the calibration out.
    Penetrating oil does not seem to work too well on downward facing plugs.
     
  10. I used the torque wrench as it was the longest wrench bar I had, swapped it though as soon as the Plug had loosened. Also turned the torque setting up to as high as it would go. Must admit the rear draining plug was a bit harder to get off, it had paint/under sealer all over it. Cleaned it up with a wire brush. Perhaps you could apply some heat on the gearbox case to expand the thread round the bo.. sorry plug :D.
     
  11. That makes it a bit clearer. I will try the heat suggestion followed by impact wrench.
     
  12. Goodluck. Sorry, to used to dealing with Sump bolts on my old mini and not sump plugs! ::)
     
  13. foe

    foe

    Is this for type 4 gearboxes? As mine (Type 2 gearbox) only has one fill/empty hole which is located on the nearside middle.
     
  14. Look under the bottom of the bellhousing... The drain plug is there... Fill plug is on the lh side of the box :)
     
    foe likes this.
  15. Like Gunner Gav says,
    If you have a siezed up fill or drain plug, I would try warming up the area around the plug with a heat gun, you will be suprised how hot you can get the aluminium, which has a higher coificient of expansion that steel and therefore expands and in theory loosens its grip.
    Also the heat will soften any thing glueing up the threads.
    Tony
     
    foe likes this.
  16. foe

    foe

    Thank you both

    Found the drain plug "thanks Paul"

    And Bhubesi you right! The drain plug would not budge took out for 20 mins and hey presto no problem!!!

    :):)
     
  17. Thats
    Foe you are very welcome!!
    When you get to my age, you will have found out a trick of the trade or two, as well.
    Tony
     
    foe likes this.
  18. Thanks, had ago last weekend
     

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