Sorry, haven't had chance to do any more investigation work since my last posting - been really busy for the last few days. Will go through each suggestion in turn then replace the tinware I know is missing with the engine in, then give it a run - if the problem still exists, yes I submit - it's engine out, but in all honesty, I can't see anything extra I will be able to find with the engine out, other than to replace that one piece of flat tinware? Fan looks ok/unblocked, will already have checked timing, valve clearances, carb mixture, etc? What else should I be looking for exactly with engine out?
Fan housing blocked/vanes fallen off it, van loose on hub. Doghouse tin fallen off back of fan housing. That other relief valve (before you take engine out). A biggy - single port fan (narrow) in Doghouse housing (wide). Hand around the back - fan should almost touch housing, if you can get your finger in...
To be honest matey, I may be doing you a disservice. I haven't played with a type 4 in years and years, it's uprights all the way for me! Course I could always pop around for a look, but can't guarantee anything. I'm in london this weekend but maybe an evening next week? I remember the bus- you had a little bit of rot on your inner sills, is that the one? It wasn't too bad from what I remember, but then that's coming from me... Beetle wise- I don't suppose yours was the two-tone yellow/white 1200?
@happystamps next week is fine. Yes thats the bus. All that work is done. Just got to strip it for paint and a few frame repair this winter. My bug was the orange one that needed a lot of work but that all done now. Got to shoot that in colour too. Drop me a line next week. Cheers
Was passing the alternator man today, so just popped in to tell him he hasn't seen the last of me as I will have to pop the alternator back to him to get the wire re-soldered on that came off when I last used the bus and it got hot. He didn't seem convinced that the engine could get the alternator hot enough to melt the solder inside, and suggested that maybe there may be something wrong with the alternator that's making the alternator get hot & this heat is being transferred to the engine? Anyways, he's gonna have a look inside & repair the wiring inside the alternator. Whilst it was out, I thought i'd take a quick piccie for good measure just to share with you all, although cannot see there could be anything wrong with a fan?..
the lowest grade of solder available has a melting point of ~180'C but its not fully molten to ~220'C
the alternator does get hot, but it's designed to work within a pre specified temperature range....the higher output Alternators need the pulley fan....someone may have changed it for a non fan pulley....if the bearing is worn this will contribute to heating issues, but you'd know if the bearing was kaputt by the sound.... A bad connection/cable to either the +ve or -ve side of the battery would also make the alt work harder, as would a faulty regulator....if all these have been tested and ruled out, then the overheating issues lies with the engine itself.... as fitted to 70A alts....worth considering anyway
hi all, Eventually found some time to play with the bus after starting a new job and the weather turning into winter mode! Replaced the beetle fan with a proper bus one, sorted the wiring to the alternator, put it all back together. Just started it up and left it running for about 10 minutes, just ticking over. After 10 minutes, the tinware started getting quite hot (mainly the tinware above the heads (especially on the left hand side, looking from the back of the bus), and the rear tinware behind the bottom pulley) - also the carb manifolds started getting very hot and also the metal around the floor of the engine bay. Is this normal - should all these bits be getting this hot so soon just ticking over?
The exhaust will warm up the rear tinware especially if you have an aftermarket 4 into 1 as the top tubes almost touch the tinware. All the bits you mention should get warm but not hot too quickly. Do you get a good blast of hot air out from the back of the under tinware along with the warming up? - the fan and flaps should be working to give you cooling air. Otherwise, check the flaps are actually opening - with a cold engine - disconnect the thermostat from the bracket and wiggle the thermostat on the end of the rod up and down - you should hear the flaps go clunk up above. If the thermostat is pulled down too hard on the bracket, the flaps cant open properly. It is possible to adjust some on the slot in the bracket, and some more on unwinding the thermostat a bit on the rod. In the ideal case, the top of the thermostat should hit the top of the bracket when the flaps are open fully. Move the bracket up and down until this happens. Then pull the thermostat down and bolt it to the bracket. Make sure its all straight. http://www.ratwell.com/technical/Thermostats.html
10 minutes at tick-over and the engine should virtually be cold... these engines over-cool on idle... Where abouts are you? As I think it's time you had a pro look at this...
ISA Technik VAG Specialists, Birmingham Bridge Walk Woodcock Lane North BIRMINGHAM B27 6SN This guy knows his stuff about 2 miles from you. 07879 878071 give him a call he is called Ian.
