Heater blower fan

Hi,
I've got issues with my heater blower fan as I cant get it to operate!
I've tested the fan with a direct feed from the battery and it spins like a good un. I have a live feed from the battery and the inline fuse is good. I have power from the regulator when the engine is running and I can get the solenoid to click by fitting a direct earth to it (the earth should be supplied from the switch on the heater control leaver). I initially thought that the earth from the heater control was at fault and I'm still not sure if this is the case?, however with a direct earth from the battery the solenoid clicks. I have power out of the solenoid to the fan but the fan wont kick in, strangely when I disconnect the earth to the motor the output from the solenoid stops...

I'm not a sparky but can usually work my way through things, any ideas would be welcomed or do I put a rocker switch on the dash and wire it direct with an inline fuse and bypass the solenoid?

Ta.

 

Probably dropping voltage enroute to the solenoid. Measure the voltage across the solenoid. Short across the output pins of the relay to see of the fan runs, might be naff relay contacts

 

Your description is not very clear.

There may well be more than one fault here.

Its not a need to be a sparky, just application of simple logic, work backwards from the bit that works until you find a broken bit, fix it and keep working backwards.

It seems like you have a fan that works .

But it is not clear if you ground the control wire to from the dash switch that the relay clicks and the fan spins... or is it that the relay just clicks and the fan doesnt spin.

If the relay contacts have burnt then the mechanical moving part of the relay will click but there will be no 12 volts on the fan.

Probably easiest to get a 15 amp relay and replace the duff one.

If you ground the dashboard switch wire, does the relay click ? If it does , that wire is good. If it doesnt then the wire is broken.

If the relay clicks when you ground the wire then you need to clean the metal contacts of the switch on the heater lever. Also checking that the lever actually moves far enough to close the switch anyway.

 

Thanks for the input mate, my next step is going to be the heater lever switch and grounding, then a new solenoid...

 

Our lever didn't ground property so put the earth wire on a switch on the dash

 

That's what I reckon mate

 

I'm back on it this weekend!!

 

Do you have the ignition on/ engine running when trying to run the fan ?

 

Yes, engine running and lever in the down position (I've tried it with the lever up too) I'm thinking switch...

 

have you checked the fuse on the fan itself?

 

Yes mate. The inline fuse is fine..

 

So, I've come to the conclusion that the relay is toast! Been looking for a new relay but can't seem to find one?
Most relays are 4 pin, this ones 5, any ideas where I can get one from?

Cheers

 

You can just use a 5 pin twin output relay.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/High-Tec...637123?hash=item44423664c3:g:amwAAOSwQN5aZx8B

 

Thanks for that, this may seem a daft question but I don't honestly know but why is there a need for twin outlets?

 

Load.

 

Doesn't mean much to me mate, load?

 

The original relay had two sets of contacts inside the relay to split the current through each. Not easy to find that type of relay now so use a relay with twin outlets to fit both yellow/black wires on.

 

Thanks for the info, relay ordered!

 

Or just buy a 30 amp rated relay rather than the usual 16 amp rated relay and forget about messing with paralleling contacts.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-Rela...172406?hash=item1a2d7acd76:g:A8sAAOSwPyBZrS-X

 

^this