Has anyone fitted a remote servo to a 72-74 bay?

Cheers Snotty, I suppose that stops any fuel issues getting too far up the pipe. Good call. It also means it is in the engine bay and easy to replace.

 

The Brazilian servo,s have them on the servo ....

 

Hi all
Is there any update with the progress on this job. Was it worth doing ? Etc etc

 

It has been a very busy week at work so It will get its first drive on Sunday.

The fitting was very straight forward. I reckon you could easily do it in a day. Just that I have had to do mine in the evenings and the odd spare hour here and there.

 

Go on...try it . Does the servo hiss?

 

Haven't heard it hiss. Why should it? Probably wont hear it from inside the van and the engine running.

 

OK, so..... the final verdict.

Was it worth it. Definitely, there is now much less effort needed. Bleeding the whole system a couple of times has produced a good pedal.

Total cost was £389.00 in all. That included brake fluid and little sundries such as rubber grommets. Although out of the box I have only used 4 so that is pennies really.

If you do not want to go down the whole welding route then I would recommend this. Yes you can do it cheaper with a Brazilian servo, but I have not added up and worked out the difference.

Tools needed.
6mm drill bit.
RULER for measuring under the cab floor.
Some 20mm X 5mm thick aluminium bar. to make spacers to allow for the recesses in the cab floor mouldings. This makes sure that you do not stress the mounting bracket.
Pipe flaring tool, get a good one.
approximately 12 feet of Kunfier brake pipe.
New brake unions you will need 4 short for the van 10mm X 1mm thread pitch SHORT
plus 4 long for the servo. ( these came with the servo) They have a different thread to the ones on the van.) Fluid inlet and outlet female threads 3/8"-24 UNF LONG
A 22mm hole cutter to allow the vac hose to run through the chassis and into the engine bay. This allows for rubber grommets. (the hose has a 17mm OD).
Pipe bending tools. A pipe bender and some pipe bending pliers for the tight curves.
RECOMMENDED BUT NOT ESSENTIAL:- A pressure bleeder. I used the sealey one it is brilliant and you can do the job on your own.

Other stuff.

I used 1.5 ltrs of DOT 4 synthetic fluid.
A can of Waxoyl to spray everything once you have finished.
TIME. I reckon you can do this in a day.

 

Excellent! I've got a servo sitting in the garage waiting to be fitted.

Got a pic of the finished article?

 

I will take some tomorrow night of the whole lot, as I am going to put together a proper "how to".

THe only thing you MUST take care with is to make sure you do not mount it too close to the beam. The pipe for the rear brakes going out of the remote servo needs room for the bend in the pipe and the unions are LONG unions. so you need to leave room to get the curvature on the pipe and space to feed the union into the servo.

Other than that it is a doddle.

 

I'm looking forward to the how to as this is on my to do list

 

I will get it all finished by the end of the weekend. It is a busy week at school this week so I wont have any time in the evenings now.

 

Nearly finished my how to, hope to get it up tomorrow night. Been out for a drive in it today and am so glad I did this conversion.

 

We're on the edge of our seats ...

 

Do you have any pictures of the finished project to. ..brake Pipe and vacuum pipes fitted etc

 

Here you can see how i had to block off the heater feed to the main cabin of the van. I 3D printed some block off caps at school. they are 56.5mm ID and 20mm deep. There is not enough space to fit the wide 57mm tube that fits in here. I am going to look into a solution to this. The pipe work all goes in easily. In this position, the servo clears the handbrake cables fine.

The vac pipe fits well with not tight radiuses. plenty of room on top of the remote servo for fitting all of the piping.

The servo has two bleed nipples, 10mm spanner needed. A stubby 10mm spanner really helps here as there is not much room. All the other bleed nipples require a 7mm spanner.

 

I have T'd the vac hose into my balance pipe between my 34 ICT's The one way valve is in the engine bay to make it easy to get to.

 

The vac pipe comes into the engine bay on the lower LH side of the foam seal. There is just enough room here to drill the hole needed for the grommets that you MUST use to feed the pipe through. I drilled a 22mm hole but it really does depend on the OD of the grommet you use. The 10mm ID vac hose has a 17mm OD. The nearest grommets I could find were 16mm ID, so I just removed a bit of the grommet with a scapel blade to open it up enough to take the vac hose.

 

That great of you to post the pics so quick after request . Thank you

 

I am sat typing up a detailed "How to". It is turning into a kind of thesis. I want to make a step by step set of instructions. There is one on the VWjim web site but it is for Splitscreens. I just hope it is worth the wait.