Gertie the 72 crossdresser. Full resto....and it needs it!

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by exuptoy, Jul 5, 2012.

  1. I just replaced the b-pillar outer cap on mine and had the same problem where it was too curved, I had to cut a couple of small triangles out of either side and open it out a touch then reweld.

    So yes you are not wrong the curve did not match, can you make a card template from the other side to get the curve right? That's what I did

  2. Cheers Ben. However in my frustrations, I have just ordered another cap from JK which in their advert states that it has the correct profile. I'll then modify this one in case I need to repair the nearside. Cheers for the input though. ;)
  3. They are often too bent. What I've done in the past is to get the top part (the og bit you removed) flowing nicely, then, because the curve of the lower outer repair increases gradually to the bottom, chop bits off the bottom where the curve is too much, until you have a pieve with the right profile, then re-bend (make new) the bottom tab.

    The bit that hides behind the arch does "run out" just below the top of the arch as you suggest. Mangled here, but this is the only pic I can find showing how it was before it rotted away...

    Another, not great pic, but unmolested at the point you're interested in.
  4. Cheers Zed! ;)

    Guy's, I just love this site O0. Sooooo helpful.
  5. Armed with my cardboard template I made the other day, my folder, hammer/dolly and joggler, I decided to make up the B pillar skin.
    The only problem I encountered was that my joggler jaws are too deep to get the joggled edge far in enough towards the fold so I may have to cut a slither out and reweld and dress back. We'll see I suppose when I start welding it together. Not a big job but still satisfying nonetheless when you've made a piece instead of buying it.

    Finished cleaning off the rotten surrounding panel from the cap and cleaned it up then gave it a good coat of Kurust. Stripped all the electrophoretic coating from the B pillar inner and gave it a coat of etch primer other than the welding edge which I coated with weld through primer.
    I will wait until I get me new B pillar lower cap from JK before welding everything together.


    I also re-hung ,my door and picked some more rot out of the floorpan and around the arch.
  6. Spent 8 hours up the garage today and had a good day. Quite productive.

    Cut the letterbox slot in the chassis a bit wider to encompass some more rot and cut up a Schofield chassis section so I had some thick steel instead of body steel. For some reason I managed to see an imaginary line and cut through it so my plate was now short.
    I bought a second hand scratch start Tig some time ago for £50 so thought I'd stitch it back up before welding it to the chassis. Save wasting good steel eh?
    Quite pleased for a cheap unit. Not a lot of options with it tho. Just weld and adjust the power thats all.
    quite pleased with that.

    Back to the Mig then for the normal welding. Boxed in the chassis and gave it a once over with the grinder.

    Decided then to cut the joggled edge from the B pillar plate I had made and flip it over so the joggled edge was the correct length and rewelded then folded the bottom [glow=red,2,300]flange[/glow] to box it in. Left the weld on the back side to keep the strength and just dressed the front.

    Welded it in place then painted it and decided to weld in the B pillar inner and finish it off.

    Decided to cut the front top hat to length and joggled the inside edge so the old top hat is double thickness at the joint.
    Then welded it in place and fitted the sill with Cleco skin pins so it all lines up. Just have to clean off the EP top coat tomorrow from the sill and I can weld it back to the bus for the first time in around 5 years.

    Not a bad day eh?
  7. Progress is so much more visible when you're sticking bits on rather than hacking them off isn't it?. :)
  8. Sure is. Don't seem to have gone far but really haven't stopped all day except for lunch. Ah well, every bit replaced is one bit less to do eh?
  9. Killed the new grinder I got last week, when the gearbox failed. Took a run back to machine mart and got a new one and some welding tips.

    Stitched my top hat down to the chassis and prepared the chassis beneath it to take a plate.

    Cut out the rearmost top hat and found some grot beneath, so chopped it out and plated it.

    Plenty of rot in here! Cleaned it up a little and stuck in another plate. My welding is coming on too ;D

    Somehow I managed to kill my welder (either that or the thermal cutout has kicked in with all the welding. Had to resort to using my SIP 150 but not really happy. I was used to the Clarke and in my opinion the weld was better.

    Yet another section cut out to repair the underside on the box where the outrigger will sit. O/R and Jacking point fitted after the plate was welded in.

    Another good days work. Seems to be coming on now.
  10. Another grinder dead (brushes making their own little light show in the back and sounding like an arc furnace.:lol: Straight in the car back down to Swansea machine mart, told them I wanted to upgrade to a Makita industrial item. £37 extra later, jobs a good un. Not much faith in Clarke grinders when you can kill 2 within 4 days!!!

    Cut a top hat to length and joggled the edge. Slotted it into the cut end of my rearmost top hat. Spot welded through to the joggled lip then seam welded around the joint.
    Had to build up the section of chassis which supports the top hat where I fitted the upper plate yesterday as it was too low to get the top hat level.

    Removed my temp sill and drilled for spot welds and cleaned off the EP paint coat so I could weld the sill on. Welded through onto the jacking point then coated all the welds with etch primer to protect it until I get the middle and outer sills on.
  11. Ground back the welds and paint on the inner sill and put some etch primer on it. Cleaned up the middle sill and removed all paint with a view to putting some paint on it before fitting. Clamped it all up and checked the line then somehow I got side tracked and welded the sill in place without painting the now inside bare surface. Before I realised I had plug welded the sill every 20mm then run a seam all the way along the bottom!!!!!!!!!
    Too much welding carried out to remove it in one piece so I now have to find a way of painting the inner surface of the middle sill while I can still get some sort of nozzle (even a straw and a wd40 nozzle on a rattle can!!). Don't care how much paint goes in providing it isn't left bare. I'm gonna waxoil the guts out of it when finished anyway.
    Does anyone have any bright ideas for a numpty like me! :(

    Anyway, pics.

    Repaired the B pillar top skin but not welded it to the jacking point/sill as yet until I get either the middle panel of the front arch in place.

    Still need a solution for my lack of paint tho.

  12. Drill some holes and use waxoil and pump it in there then use some rubber blanking plugs and tiger seal them in it will be fine
  14. Bang on but put your plug holes in 1st so its easy to get at

  16. Got hold of another Clarke welder. A 120E this time for £60 to replace my 100E which failed. Much happier using it than the SIP 150. I just can't get on with it. Fresh tip/shroud/wire and jobs a good un!

    Went over a few welds as I wasn't happy with them.
    Getting further forward now! Started off with a large hole behind the B pillar.

    Cleaned it up with a wire wheel and it looked a little like this.

    Got the inner arch panel in place and had to modify it a little to fit. Not quite finished yet and also need to finish off the inside if I have chance tomorrow. Maybe have a day off and get stuck in on Saturday we'll see.

    It getting better. More fresh metal and a little less rot! O0
  17. Nice one thats the exact job ive just finished. Ive got a clarke 130 good little welder, i agree theres not a lot of good stuff said about the sip welders
  19. The impression i get is there cheap n nasty welders. Good luck with the rest of ur resto dude keep the pics coming

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