Fuel Cut Off Solenoid?

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by F_Pantos, Mar 24, 2020.

  1. Anyone tried this particular model?


    Any specific recommendations for others?

    Current set up is roughly 100mm length of 5.6mm to filter to 7.6mm to Facet cube pump then on to Malpassi regulator and filter to twin Dells.

  2. Maybe not exactly the same model but I fitted a valtek to my camper a couple of years ago and never had any problems with it..
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  3. I fitted one similar too, word of warning though, I found it would go 'nuts' clicking madly when powered from the coil, took feed + elsewhere and all ok then.
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  4. Wrong side of coil : you connected it to the contact breaker side, not the big black wire ignition feed side...
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  5. My solenoid issue was that fitted between tank and a mechanical fuel pump, when you turned off the ignition, the fuel pump would suck so hard it sucked the valve firmly closed. The next time you tried to start it it couldnt open. So you could drive about 5 metres before it stopped and wouldnt start again.

    Adding a capacitor across the coil and a diode so the valve stays open for a bit after the ignition turns off would have solved it.. but I went for a boost circuit that pulses 32 volts onto the coil for half a second as you turn on the ignition. Which has worked for years.
  6. That's exactly what I fitted. Suggest you also hide a waterproof switch somewhere underneath in the 12v line as a security feature. Turn it off when you are away from the van for a while. You also may want to consider hard pipe for any tight bends. Fit it tank side of the firewall.

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    Last edited: Mar 25, 2020
  7. As an aside, I got it from them a year ago for £18 - I would try a 'best offer' ;)

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  8. Thanks Mike, never new that ! :thumbsup:
  9. I've got the same sort of solenoid fitted to the LPG system on my T3 caravelle so it shuts off the petrol when running on gas.
    Handy that if it fails you just flip the lever to bypass it, though not so much use as a security measure if its easily accessible.
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  10. I'm glad some has one and it works I brought one last year testing on the bench worked but I never fitted it due to wiring it up. Can someone do a fag packet diagram.
    Is there a different way to wire other than from the coil
  11. Probably best to wire from the coil as it doesn't go through a fuse (is that right?). Taking a fused supply risks the thing cutting out in the fast lane if the fuse blows. Also must be supplied via ignition switch so it isolates fuel when you turn the ignition off.
    nell likes this.
  12. Some one I know may or may not have tried this and blown his/her electronic ignition up.
  13. That's probably because they cocked up the coil connections.

    Ground one side of the valve, power the other from the +ve (15) side of the coil, so it's energised with the ignition (which is the whole point of the thing). Put an in-line fuse in the supply line to the valve.
  14. I will make sure *they* keep that in mind lol
  15. You may be able to tap into the reverse light line which comes from the coil and goes to the side of the gear box (if you have reverse lights). This should have an inline fuse already (hopefully). Remember in this instance you are bringing 12v close to petrol, and you don't want one of your dodgy crimps arcing merrily away next to a perished fuel hose.

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  16. Tell "them" to watch out this time ;)
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  17. Yes, you're probably right about the fuse. I now recall that I have one but it's about 10A to avoid accidental failure.
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  18. Worth having, if you're loading the ignition supply up with other kit. Nice to have a fuse...somewhere. 10A should do the trick.
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  19. After checking it had brass fittings for the hose, I offered £18 and they accepted, thanks for the tip :hattip:

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