Front door seals

Discussion in 'How To' started by physiopro, Aug 5, 2013.

  1. Hi guys and girls
    Any advice on the best way to put the front door seals in? Do you use a spray adhesive, which corner would you start etc. any advice much appreciated.
    I have bought good seals from custom and commercial!
    Thanks :)
     
  2. We used adhesive spray then started from the top corner then moulded them across the top and down. They stretch real easy so the first time we ended up with an excess so took if off and left it overnight to reshape! Good luck! :)
     
    physiopro likes this.
  3. Thanks for that so moral is don't stretch when sticking it on? :)
     
    Farrantini likes this.
  4. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Start at top, corners in, then halfway and halfway etc. They will appear too long at first.
    Same down the catch side. You need them right in the channel, so nip outside the door and squeeze in with your fingers to finish it off.
    Then down the front, the top has a channel, but the rest and the bottom corner need glue. This is the only part that needs glue - no glue in the channels. I brush it on, you don't want it on your paintwork and don't need much.
    Last along the bottom. This bit will appear too short! Get the step bit in and then work it so it's not tight across the "knee" or it'll stick down and drag out on the arch. Where the two internal strengtheners are fitted, the channel is narrower and will grip the seal allowing you to stretch either side a little and leave the knee slacker. If your arch/door are close at this point, this is essential.
     
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  5. JamesLey

    JamesLey Sponsor

    If all of your door is in tact (i.e. the channel for the seal is all there) then you shouldn't need any adhesive. I started at the top as well and it went in a treat. Used a small amount of tiger seal on the bottom where my channel had been 'repaired'.
     
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  6. Thanks very much zed will have a go tomorrow and see how I get on :)
     
  7. Thanks bud I think I may practise first with double sided adhesive tape to make sure I get it right!! :)
     
  8. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Then just leave the tape on, it'll probably work fine! It's worth having a dry run on the bit around the check strap which doesn't fit very well. Originally there were spring clips front and back of the hole here though I've never seen any still attached to the seal.
     
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  9. Thanks zed will give it a go tomorrow, if I remember right the rubber around the check strap actually clips inside the hole:)
     
  10. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    It should but they don't. Are you saying your seal has clips? Or you have clips for this? Or it's just shaped?
     
  11. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I predict that 3 sides will sit nicely, but the one towards the inside of the bus will boing out a bit. :D
     
  12. No clips but the shape of the rubber is such that you push it I to the hole and the back of it expands out into the hole! I think:)
     
  13. Do you mean around the door retainer hole?
     
  14. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Yes, the check strap hole. The edge nearest inside is thinner and the seal a bit too big for the hole - only slightly. I don't have a solution, I don't like to cut seals.

    ...and on all the glued bit, just glue the main flat surface. If you glue up the side, it'll be very difficult to fit into the corner and there's no need, it almost sits in the right place on it's own if you do the channel bit last. Here again, you'll have to loose what looks like an impossible amount of seal.
    Look down the length of the channels/ seal and squeeze the last bits in. Then the nasty bit..
    After a few gingely efforts of course.
    SLAM the door fully home and leave it for as long as you can. Always shut it fully. The more time it spends shut, the less you'll have to slam it. Don't use the handle, flat palm level with the catch and don't follow through! i.e. let go an inch from shut or whatever slamming style feels good.:cool:
    Not good if your window is still rattling around loose in the door. Always have another hatch open to begin with. Even 2 years on it helps mine to open a window a little if I'm shutting from the inside, but it's a 4" slam on the grab handle now. At first I had to wind the window right down and grab the door to slam it. :lol:
    This all sounds a bit heavy, but it's worth it. The cheaper seals would never allow the door to shut flush and eventually break the doors if you persevered as they are far too hard, particularly the corners.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 5, 2013
    physiopro likes this.
  15. Thanks a lot for all the advice will follow it and let you know how I get on! :)
     
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  16. Well after much to do I have got both the front door rubbers on and the sliding door rubber on! They all fit very well just I didn't know what I was doing:(. Will post some photos tomorrow but really pleased with the fit of front doors and sliding door. I glued the top corners of the front doors so they followed the top edge of the door. I also glued down the front edge around the door retainer but otherwise they have sat in real good:) custom and commercial rubbers are very nice:)
     
  17. Thanks for all the advice off everybody! :)
     
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  18. So I have managed to get all the rubbers in now and really pleased with them all! Great quality from custom and commercial!
    [​IMG]
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  19. Oooh I love the colour of your bus!!
     
    physiopro likes this.
  20. Thank you very much. So do I! :)
     
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