Flushing engine flushing

Discussion in 'General Discussion' started by Purple, Nov 10, 2018.

  1. My van is in for an engine and gearbox oil change next week and have been offered an engine flush as it's unlikely to have been changed since about 2010!

    As I tend to worry about nit-Marmite - would the residue of the engine flush actually degrade/thin the fresh oil being put in?
     
  2. If there’s muck in your oil cooler, its only way out is through the crank bearings. Best avoided.
     
    77 Westy and Purple like this.
  3. If it’s a type 1 engine with no oil filter you want as much of the nit-marmite as possible to stay stuck wherever it is in the engine.

    Make sure whoever is changing the gearbox oil uses a fully synthetic GL-4 75W-90 oil such as Castrol Syntrans Multivehicle.
     
    Purple and snotty like this.
  4. Your paying someone else to change your oil that’s not been changed in 8 years ?
     
    Faust, Purple and snotty like this.
  5. I’d also put mineral 90w oil in a bay box ( I don’t know if yours is Brazilian or not ) for 2 reasons , it has worked and lasted ok for the last 30-40 years and fully synthetic oils have detergents in them which dissolve all the crap which acts as a lovely grinding paste ...it will dissolve all the sludge and circulate it around ...
     
    Kruger, Purple and Lila like this.
  6. I'm with 77Westy......don't do it.
    I once added redex to my beetle. It started smoking as soon as I left the petrol station and didn't stop.

    On the positive side, clearing all the crud that was sealing the engine did teach me how to strip one, deglaze the cylinders and fit new piston rings. At 20 a real life lesson. My Dad was really chuffed to see all his 60s tools being used again.

    Change the oil, reset the tappets, check the points and timing. Run for another 3000 mls.

    Sorted! And money in the bank to take the good lady out for a slap up meal........you never know where that might lead but it won't be a smokey exhaust.
     
    Purple likes this.
  7. Syntrans is just fine :thumbsup: Definite improvement over mineral.
     
    77 Westy and Mark Darby like this.
  8. Yes, getting the gearbox oil changed as well for the same reason - and I'm fed up of giving myself mini-strokes from squeezing under the bloody thing and forcing myself into the wheel arch to manually adjust the tappets.
     
    snotty likes this.
  9. Yes, mine is a 2003 Danbury imported Brazzer - I'm supplying the mineral engine oil and the gearbox oil as is recommended for them
     
    snotty likes this.
  10.  
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  11. That looks the ideal oil for later vans with hydraulic lifters, I bet they wont drain down with that in !!
     
    paradox and art b like this.
  12. That’s...revolting.
     
    Bhubesi likes this.
  13. It’s vintage vw oil must be worth a bit

    I can’t see the engine running with oil like that
     
    snotty likes this.
  14. It makes no difference whether the base stock is mineral or synthetic, it’s the additive pack that may or may not include detergent. Detergent is a common additive in engine oil to reduce deposits and to neutralise acid from blowby but it’s unusual for detergent to be added to gear oil because it’s not required. As far as I know, and can find out, Castrol Syntrans Multivehicle does not contain detergent.

    A good quality mineral based oil is certainly adequate for the transaxle but a synthetic GL-4 would be more consistent and would improve the gear change, especially when the oil is cold. Your choice; mineral is adequate and cheap, synthetic is better but more expensive.
     
    snotty and Purple like this.
  15. I checked the specs of both- having bought them sometime ago on the recommendations of the Brazilian Bay forum - both oils are semi synthetic, not mineral as I posted previously.
     

    Attached Files:

    77 Westy likes this.
  16. Both of those will be fine. :thumbsup:
     
    Purple likes this.
  17. :thumbsup:
     

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