Fitting external Propex/Whale heater

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Dicky, Dec 18, 2015.

  1. Looks like theyve made it easy for you. Lol. Leave the y piece at the back and block it off in case you do reinstate heating. You wouldnt want it to get rusty in there. Is there a connector at the rear or do you have to cut it?
     
  2. So a question or hopefully confirmation. I am trying to understand workings of bus whilst underneath....[​IMG]
    So with centre heater tube now removed I can see various cables etc running front to back. In above picture am I correct in thinking that large metal rod running through top hats is gear linkage? Of the two cables there the larger - clutch cable and the smaller one - speedo cable?
    Many thanks.
     
  3. Incidentally my belly pan removal found some nastiness inwill ignor for now!
     
    nicktuft likes this.
  4. Yes was going to leave it all there including cables.
    I wondered if that concertina was an after fit!
    Rear pushed into y piece and small weld at bottom.[​IMG]
     
  5. heater cables , throttle and clutch, brakes? All under there somewhere. Not speedo tho thats at the front.
     
    Bertie the Bus likes this.
  6. Looks quite tidy underneath.
     
    Bertie the Bus likes this.
  7. I was dreading removing mine - working on the theory ignorance is bliss! However, I am relatively pleased - nothing horrific. Mostly covered in sprayed waxoyl or similar. Some minor surface rust around but that can wait till warmer weather! I will need to chop the side pans off at some point to see what is lurking under them!
     
  8. especially for a 40 year old English bus:)
     
  9. Watching this one with interest - I'd like to do a similar setup. Thanks for sharing progress. Do you both plan to keep the heat exchangers plumbed in too or just rely on the gas heater?
     
  10. I'm gonna try just Propex. If it is not sufficient then I will put original heater pipes back in but that will mean two new exchangers as mine are holey:(
     
    tommygoldy likes this.
  11. Both for me.
     
    tommygoldy likes this.
  12. My £10 ebay purchase turned up in post today........[​IMG]

    Very pleased as it fits nicely on the original pipe as well as the new propex ducting......
    [​IMG]

    Jubilee clip seems normal for clamping ducting onto reducer. Can't do that on larger end though as plastic reducer won't compress on to original metal pipe. Will I be ok with just silicon sealant in the joint or do I need to put a couple of self tappers through as well? Thoughts/ideas welcome
     
  13. silicone seal it on to make it airtight and maybe a couple of small self tappers will give it a mechanical fixing to keep it on
     
    Bertie the Bus likes this.
  14. Self tappers id say and some sealant. You could just duct tape it to be honest.mine has got a big hole in the floor now. Christmas stopped play!
     
    Bertie the Bus likes this.
  15. Have you unstitched your belly pan yet? Or just working from above at moment.
    Mainly rain and putting up a feather edged fence, oh and now Christmas slowing things down:)
     
  16. Mine were bolted when fitted but a couple of mot repairs resulted in some welding which attached them in a couple of places. Its an opportunity to undo a couple of bodges at least passenger side one is off but offside one is holding inner sill in place so that can await until after next mot!
     
    Bertie the Bus and tommygoldy like this.
  17. Got a nice roll of aluminium tape here. Earmarked.
     
    Dicky likes this.
  18. Last edited: Dec 27, 2015
  19. theBusmonkey

    theBusmonkey Sponsor

  20. Some pics. Temporary install as a bit of tlc required under there but should be ready to test later.

    image.jpeg

    image.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Dec 30, 2015

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