Fitting external Propex/Whale heater

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Dicky, Dec 18, 2015.

  1. bought this big old beast from @yorkieman on here (many thanks).

    image.jpeg

    In the process of sussing out the install. Unlike the all gas models the hot air and return outlets point upwards. I have a couple of ideas of where it can go but they are quite big heaters so there are limitations. i know @physiopro has a very similar heater installed and have seen his in place. Wondered if anyone else had done this or was considering it and would like to share any wisdom on the matter.

    At the moment im leaning towards fitting between chassis rail and sill on near side with vents through the floor behind the passenger bulkhead, (mine is cut out for a swivel seat) a small shallow unit to hide the vents and a tee off into the cab. My old proex X1 used to be fitted in the same spot and it was good for warming the cab on the move before the exchangers got warm. Recirc will be from inside the van.

    Combustion air and exhuast ducts will cross over to the off side where its likely i will take the plunge and use the VIM bracket (which is a bit pricey for what it is I accept.) to burst a myth on the mounting of the inlet and exhaust ducts for when sthe vehicle is on the move they are intended to be at the side of the vehicle at 90 degrees from the line of the van with the supply air duct towards the front. They arent designed to be on the rear of the vehicle. I would guess therefore that if you arent using the VIM bracket the same should apply to the ducts.

    http://www.propexleisure.co.uk/shop/vehicle-in-motion-bracket

    image.jpeg


    I was considering modifying the heater so the vents were in line like the gas only model and fitting between chassis rails but seems like a lot of work.

    Like this

    image.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Dec 18, 2015
  2. My new Propex HS2211 arrived today. I've gone for gas only, so slightly smaller than yours and with the vents in the end. I bought the VIM bracket with it. Plan is to mount it similar to mounting in picture above. Hope to get some time under the bus this weekend to start having a good look and poke around. Glad to see there is now a plastic boot to cover the electric plug which didn't seem to be around on earlier models.
     
    theBusmonkey and Dicky like this.
  3. This is where im looking at fitting to make sense of my earlier post.

    That would be under the van though to clarify lol.

    image.jpeg
     
    Bertie the Bus likes this.
  4. Looks good. Have you got enough exhaust/flue piping to take them to your offside sill?
     
  5. Havent bought a fitting kit as yet incase i change my mind. Might fit a silencer on it. Also going to fit initially but would need to reroute later as belly pans need removing and that will result in some welding repairs
     
  6. The one i fitted last year had the plastic boot but its still woefully inadequate IMO. You'll find the two command wires are thinner than cheap speaker cable so I decided to hack them off & run some twin core into the boot & then seal the lot up with heat shrink. That aside, you'll not be disappointed once it's all in
    ;o)
     
  7. Does that bad boy require the same spec flue pipes as the smaller unit Dickie, ie they allegedly have to be a length specified by propex/whale?
     
    Dicky likes this.
  8. You mean the 12 volt and earth. They are tiny. No idea why. First thing that struck me tbh but i spose they are only short lengths. One reason ive decided to not alter it is to keep the connections internal.
     
  9. Also bench tested it on camping gas and mains. The 2kw mains setting is significantly hotter than on gas which is similarly rated. Existing van heater seems warmer to me but thats running on propane. Next test is to stick it on propane and see it thats hotteR. Lowest eletric setting is disappointing ie the night setting although its very quiet i dont think it will contribute much in a camper. Anyway we will see. Itching to fit it now tbh!
     
  10. Im not entirely sure but they do a 2 metre length flue hose which would be about right.. That said its 22mm so could do it in solid copper to try it.
     
  11. No length stipulated in the instructions for either the whale or propex version but i did email whale on friday and ask about using 2m flues so will see what they say.
     
  12. Existing install @Lasty


    image.jpeg image.jpeg image.jpeg
    Bit messy. Used to have a curved ply front with a vent into the front and a y diverter so you could switch between front and rear.
     
    nicktuft and Lasty like this.
  13. Bertie may be able to confirm as he's got his bits ready to install but I'm sure the 2211 flue is no where near 2m IIRC.
    Thats why I had to come through the chassis to get the exhaust out under the cill.
    You may be suprised but I'd bet that low setting would keep he frost off lol.
    & yes, I mean't the red & earth wires. TBH the unit draws next to no power so a bigger cable spec is not technically required. I just remember thinking at the time I'd spent nearly 500 quid on something that was designed to be fitted externally but just didn't "feel" robust enough. That said, no probes yet!
     
  14. Yes , spot on - give `em a call if you need to ask anything , they`re VERY helpful .
    I asked them about balancing the inlet / exhaust lengths . Turns out the newer units have a pressure sensor which stops the heater if there is an imbalance between the flue pressures which can be affected by differing lengths of flue :thinking:
    As i have an old compact 1600 the engineer suggested using an old washing machine waste pipe for the inlet - saving me 20 quid on their stainless hose :thumbsup:

    :hattip:
     
    theBusmonkey likes this.
  15. This sensor can get stuck, you try and fire it up 20-50 times and nothing. If that happens, a quick puff off air up the exhaust (or is it inlet) resets it. NOT TOO VIOLENT :thumbsup: Not a lot of people know that. :cool:
     
    Dicky and Lasty like this.
  16. Yes standard kit comes with a 1metre and 0.75m. However you can buy and install anything up to 2m.
    Know what you mean about the thin cables. I thought they were a bit lightweight but then presumed it won't be running much - a few electronics and a spark!
    Been underneath Bertie today. Removed central heater pipe. Need to buy a 90mm to 60mm reducer to take the propex ducting now.
    Sorry @Dicky hijacking your thread - I will start one for my install somewhere.
     
    Dicky likes this.
  17. Combine the two if you want. Might be a good resource. Have you measured the central tube. Just a thought but will you be reinstaing your van heating at some point. I have a Y branch and a length of duct supposedly same as centre tube. Not got the reducer though. 90mm you say, will check mine
     
    Bertie the Bus likes this.
  18. I'll only be re-instating the van heating if my planned Propex set up is not up to the job!
    Central tube is about 90mm od and 86 ish id. Because it is pressed steel it is a bit flexible lol. When I told Propex what I was doing they included an 80/60 reducer and said I would need some silicon! I'm going to try and find something a bit tighter and save a tube of silicon!
     
  19. Okay this is all new to me so will probably have some questions along the way.
    Centre Belly pan off. Heater pipe covered in what looks like leatherette. Y piece at rear covered in a piece that has press studs![​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    Removed the lagging to find a short concertina section clipped on and the centre tube held on with two small welds which soon gave way with a bit of jiggling.
    [​IMG]
    So plan is to plumb propex ducting into main tube (where concertina bit was) so that I have still got the valve and take off to rear walk through vent.
    Now hopefully sourcing a reducer.......
     
    Dicky likes this.

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