Faulty Fuel Gauge - Single A3 information crib sheet for a '79 bay

Discussion in 'How To' started by Wonty, Jul 14, 2015.

  1. The previous job I had to resolve on my bus was fixing the fuel gauge, in a nutshell it did not register anything not even air....

    So going from no idea at all, to actually knowing the system quite well, and testing my knowledge on TLB with @snotty and @Diddymen it was suggested by @vanorak to add a post in here.

    So after a bit of a re-write I now have my A3 crib sheet that I am happy to share with the TLB community. Its not a "how to" guide as such but it tells me everything I need to know how to fix my bus, but I am guessing that others may find it useful...and who knows may give a pointer or two

    If you spot something that is incorrect, or worth adding, let me know and I will stick it on or amend it accordingly!

    Wonty
     

    Attached Files:

    mjones1969, Cov1987, Diddymen and 3 others like this.
  2. Looks awesome - thanks
     
    Wonty likes this.
  3. Almost wish I hadn't already fixed mine.
     
    Wonty likes this.
  4. Very nice. I like that.
     
    Wonty likes this.
  5. I feel another day with the dash out coming on.. I suspect my prob could be a poor earth, I have a glowing charging light when lights on and I had front end off last year to replace panel.. Any ideas? I have already replace sender and it was fine until I replaced front panel, I have replaced volt reg but still shows half full when it's full...
     
  6. Sorting the fuel gauge I'd on my to do list as it goes from registering 1/4 full when it's brimmed to the needle actually disappearing left circa 200 miles later. Is there a logical order to the checks I need to do?
     
  7. So I take it fuel gauge is moving up when the ignition is on, and then drops when the ignition turns off...effectively if this is right, then all the parts are connected correctly. I would say that the issue is now with the resistance value coming through to the stabiliser. If you can get to the fuel sender really easy I would be tempted to take it out and then first check the values at empty and full on the sender against the manufacturers guidelines... if this is all in tolerance, and the float is not allowing fuel in; the sender is looking good as a component. Personally I would then if possible and safe, I would manually raise and lower the sender arm and have some observe what the gauge is doing... just take care in doing this as the bus is going to be live!

    If problems are still there I would look at the values set on the fuel gauge itself. On the gauge there are a couple of screws that you can adjust to get the correct readings, you can get to these via the back of the gauge. Then with the sender in the full position adjust one screw until the needle is on F, then do the same with the fuel sender in the empty position adjusting the other screw till the gauge reads E.

    Hopefully that will help.... Like I say I'm not an expert, but boy have I ar5ed around with this over the past month!

    Fingers crossed
     
    Lasty likes this.
  8. Again as @spooly I would be tempted to see what the sender is reading resistance wise and take it from there :)
     
  9. Thanks, prob a winter job when I have engine out, like I say, I teaced sender about 18 months ago...
     
  10. Teaced = replaced
     
  11. No worries at all
     
  12. Your glowing charge light is likely corroded contacts in the charging circuit, or cabling to the bulb. There's no earth involved on the alt light. If you can only see it at night when the lights are on (or wipers, etc), it's fairly normal.
     
  13. I like the sound of fairly normal :)
     
  14. Is this guide still available? Document does not appear to be working for me.
     
  15. Just clicked on it and it downloaded to my pc ok, using a laptop with chrome browser if that helps.
     
  16. Lucky me! It's broken again!
     
  17. pm me and i can email it over if it helps?
     

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