I have been dismantling my type 4 2.0, which I now mostly done except that I cannot get the crankcase open. I have triple checked there are no nuts holding it, but have chipped part of the oil breather case from hitting it with a rubber mallet, so am now a bit nervous of being too aggressive. Any tips really welcome! On another note, I was going to take the crank, rods, pistons, bores and heads to a local machine shop for checking/regrinding etc before putting everything back together, but various people have said that it would be more cost effective just to buy a new engine, and the VW Engine Company was recommended by the company doing the work to the body. I would welcome any views on refurb vs new, and any experiences with the VW Engine Company. A new engine without ancillaries is about £2400 plus VAT, so don't want to go down this route unless you guys agree! Cheers!
..I'm doing a build at the moment in Restoration section.. first post has an index go to case split.. my guess is the cheeky one just to bottom right of push rod tube.. or oil pick up tube through bolt if front not parting or one just behind flywheel for back. Post some pics of side views.. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Thanks Deefer, you might be right there is one on your thread I don't recall seeing - will have another look tomorrow. Great idea with the puller, and great resto thread by the way - will read it all again tonight.
You have the flywheel off and the oil pump out yes? Look where Deefer66 suggests and down every recess and hole, there’ll probably be a bolt or two you haven’t found. The one that passes through the case under the cam bearing saddle can be missed – and should be the first one to be removed after the strainer cover nut. Why are you taking it apart? Did it overheat or burn oil? If it has a high mileage (say 100k) the cam will be worn so budget to replace it and the followers. Pistons and barrels are relatively cheap and if you have to pay someone to check them it might be cost effective just to replace, you’d need to fit new rings anyway. Heads will be the biggest cost if you have to renew them and a high mile, hard worked and overheated bus engine could have cracked heads. Before giving getting on for £3k to VW Engine Company look at exactly what they do and what parts they renew, you’d probably rebuild it cheaper. But don’t hit it with a hammer.
Cheers Westy, the engine is out anyway and thought it would be worth having the bottom end checked out - glad I did as the oil cooler's pipes were blocked with red gasket, and there was a lot of oil on the flywheel and elsewhere, so can change oil seals. Yes, flywheel and oil pump out and it does look like I have missed a bolt where you say. And I have put the hammer away!
If you’re unsure about the state of the heads & don’t want to go to the trouble of refurbing them the AMC replacements are a decent quality replacement. Budget for about £700 or so for the pair.
A new engine isn’t actually a new engine, it’s one someone else has done a referb on, with various amounts of actual new parts fitted.
If it's any use .. Crank regrind about £150 Heads guides re lined icl seat gring to match £15 each New valves £10 - £20 each depending g on size! There are 8... Head skim to tidy up £25 each Barells and pistons most likely ok, new set of rings £50 Small end bearing again prob ok £100 to re-Bush Main bearings £50 Cam bearings £20 Cam £250!!! Gasket set £50 Plus time.. lots if you're slow and loose things a lot like me... Paint, cleaners, bits and bob's.. didn't count I've done lots of other bits because it was missing or fancied it. Can be done on the cheap but if you find bits you want to change they add up. But I like doing it.. luckily Mrs Deefer doesn't mind me living in the garage for a few months..too much Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
These were the two most likely (i.e. ones I have previously missed) together with the oil pick up bolt if buried in crud. Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
arrrrh yes the oil pick up bolt very very frustrating for me. One must ignore the temptations to use force, thinking "how could I of all people miss a bolt" . Those Germans are devious.
Thanks, have bitten bullet and taken to local engine machine shop who do a quote, so your figures will be a useful guide. Lot cheaper than a new engine!
Yep got both of those, so must have been another one. The machine shop said they would find it, they do a lot of type 4’s for Porsches which is encouraging.
Just an update, crankcase apart (thanks @Deefer66) and everything at the machine shop. They have rung me to say that there are problems with the crankcase and a lot more too, and have strongly suggested a refurb engine, so looks like back to plan b. However, it has been suggested that I might think about ditching the fuel injection (which works) for carbs. I had assumed that I could do this if it failed in the future, but the VW Engine Co say that although the short engine can be the same, ancillaries such as heat exchangers are different, so a lot more involved to change over. Engine is currently a GD 2ltre. Didn’t want the raise the FI/carb debate again unnecessarily, but really have a dilemma as the wiring loom is about to be replaced as FI, and not sure how much of that would need to change if went for carbs. I think I am keen to give the FI a go, but as always advice really welcome.
Lots like the FI. Think you can blank off FI holes for a carb set up but making holes for FI in a carb set up is a pain. But could be wrong.. always been carbs for me... except when going keto Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
just had my 1600 rebuilt, can send you details by PM if you like. Had full rebuild only issue is Im never about to actually collect it..
What did the Machine shop say was wrong with the crankcase? Type 4 cases are fairly bulletproof. Was it just requiring an align bore?
