Ok..update.. Took the top off the carb..needle valve looked ok, but took it out & blew it out, albeit just by mouth (haven't got an so line). Float bowl looked very clean..couldn't see any crud anywhere. Put it all back together & started it up..ran ok and was ticking over, albeit a bit slow..about 500 rpm. Drove it up on blocks, got underneath & changed the fuel filter. Drove it off the blocks & it wouldn't tick over at all..felt like it was misfiring a bit. Put some more fuel in it as I know it's very low..still wouldn't tick over. Had a look at the right hand carb..dripping fuel again. It looks like it's just the bottom part that is covered in fuel. Looks like it's coming from the area around the lower butterfly plate spindle/ lower gasket are a.. hope you can see from the photos. It appears to be leaking from the front & back of the carb as it's dripping onto the front & rear 'bobbles on the manifold. I've taken the carb off now, so I can do any checks or take any photos that anyone can suggest.
I blew out the needle valve that sits below the fuel inlet in the float bowl, as shown in Dubs pictures..although only by blowing through it by mouth. Is the idle jet somewhere else? Can you identify it for me on the exploded diagram on the previous page of this thread. I would be very interested to know where the fuel us supposed to be in the carb, and how it gets to where it is supposed to be.. Is fuel leaking from my carb because it's getting somewhere it's not supposed to be & how's it getting there? Tnx.
So are you saying that with the engine running, fuel drips from the throttle shaft, onto the manifold (the wet bits in your pics?) If so, then the needle valve is still not shutting off the fuel flow for whatever reason. Try swapping the needle valve from the left carb to the right carb, and see if the problem swaps sides as well. Also, is there play in the throttle spindle?
Think @nobody does bushes to sort the spindle leak... but if fuel is still comming out when not running the valve is either leaking and needs replacing or needs a washer behind to make it shut earlier. For blowing out bits of carb we used aerosol carb cleaner or easy start with a wd40 long red nozzle to point it... Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Good idea..swapping the needle valve. Fuel does still leak from the carb about the engine running. And yes, there is a little play in the throttle spindle. Will try the washer under the needle valve trick first as I current just have the one carb off. Thanks again.
I have some carb/egr cleaner, so will try that as well. Is it just the needle valve tgat seems to be causing the issue?
That's the only bit that will allow fuel into the carb, so it's either letting fuel past due to wear, or the float isn't floating. Or the pump is pumping too much pressure, but eliminate the needle valve first, as it's the cheapest fix.
Many thanks Dubs. Just run some carb cleaner through it. Is the centre pin supposed to be spring loaded? Mine isn't. In fact, if you push the pin in, it stays in until you pull it back out again, even when the needle valve is upside down, I.e. the top of the carb is the correct way up. I will put another washer underneath the needle valve & give that a go.
Don't think its sprung it just falls open when float is down in bowl and pushed back up by top of float to shut it... but Dubs might now better.. Sent from my SM-T580 using Tapatalk
Because its all trapped together, the Solex needle valve is hard to inspect. Compressed air or blasts of carb cleaner may shift dirt: if its sticking its dirty or corroded. The pin should nove up and down freely. The carburettor will leak from the spindle if theres a puddle of petrol on the throttle plate. Re bushing will not fix that symptom of a leaky fuel valve. Fitting washers under the valve doesnt fix a leaky fuel valve. Putting it together properly with a working fuel valve does. Get a Bentley manual it has pictures.
Tnx Mike..so what you are saying is get a new fuel valve..what's the best make as I have read the empi ones are a bit crap. I do have a haynes manual, but carbs scare me!
No.. but it will reduce the air that's getting in the same way fuel is getting out which could effect running.. .. but will set the valve level correctly if it is working correcly but just too high to shut Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Eurocarb sell them on eBay, but there is no number stamped on mine, so not sure which one to order..they seem to have my.bers on the..150, 200, etc?
European don't have the oem spec, but they say that the 150 is included on their service kit. Does that sound about right?
Ok..update..got a 150 size fuel valve from eurocarb. Fitted it..engine now seems to tick over lovely..at about 800rpm, although only taken it for a 5 minute drive.. Carb all nice and dry when it's running, but as soon as you turn the engine off, fuel starts to seep from the spindle area..just where the nut is with the tab washer bent over in the picture below, and also from the same area at the rear of the carb??
