Update: As it seems I am doomed to never finish work this week in the hours of daylight, in desperation I asked my neighbour who is a mechanic to have a look at my non starting engine whilst I was at work today, and gave him all the instructions that have been kindly posted on here. Apparently the spark is okay, but the engine just refuses to fire even with easy start. The conclusion from friendly mechanic is that it must be an electrical issue. He did say that he only checked spark plugs 2 and 4, as 1 and 3 were too difficult to get to just kneeling on my drive! Personally I think this shows a complete lack of commitment, perseverance, and bendiness, but I digress. I'll have another look myself at the weekend when I'm hopefully going to be at home during daylight hours. Yay. Could it be electrical?
The only time I had spark, it turned over but wouldn't start, was when an earth cable linked to the electronic ignition had come off. Personally, if you have spark, it's much more likely fuel related.
And I don't have electronic ignition. I agree to be honest, I still think it's a carb issue and fuel starvation - if the fuel was okay, the spark plugs wouldn't be dry would they? I'll get back to it on the weekend.
If you keep turning it over and it's not starting, your plugs should be wet. Fuel is getting to your carb but not the other side. Problem lies with your carb.
Agreed also - even if your timing was out or you`d got a plug lead wrong it`d be popping and trying to start . Carb off - when you get the chance ...
I'd agree with all the people above suggesting fueling issues. This sounds like you had a bit of fuel left in the carb float bowl, you burnt it off starting up and reversing, but the fuel wasn't being replenished, so float bowl now empty (or not full enough) and van not starting. If there is fuel reaching the carb inlet, then it sounds most likely that the float valve is stuck. Having had one of the cheapo Chinese copy carbs they seem prone to issues like this. As @mgbman suggested, take the float cover off and have a look - if the bowl is not full then the float valve is at fault. In my experience they seem to seize when the engine is off, presumably as when running the flow through them is enough to keep the working so you get this working fine then broken when you get back in issue! As suggested above, capful of petrol straight down the carb throat, throttle to the floor and see if it fires up - will confirm if its fuel or electrical... Good luck....
Have you tried Eurocarb in Reading: http://www.dellorto.co.uk/shop/vw-c...1-dual-port-twin-weber-ict34-carburettor-kit/ or Martin@Webcon on here We had them on our 1641 (type 1) and swapped them out on to our 1911 type 4.. they are running beautiful, we need to get them tuned on a rolling road mid april. Aside to that, once tweaked and balanced they are superb!
It would be a bit easier to unstick the float valve as many have suggested, giving it a tap didn't work so off with the top. Stuff doesn't break while you're parked up.
Indeed. I usually finish work mid afternoon on a Friday and have the whole weekend free so l am going to reread this thread and make a concerted effort to follow all the advice in a logical order. The solution is here without doubt. And I am sure it will be simple when I find it.
Thank you. An offer that is very much appreciated, along with everyone's help and ideas on here.... But.... I think it might be sorted. Long story short: Today i was due to get a fire system put in the engine bay. My parents neighbour has a 73 westy and he was getting one done at the same time, so the idea was to move my bus over to my folks house for fitting convenience. Obviously not going to happen with a non starting Clem, so I messaged the bloke last night to explain the situation and ask if he could just do it at my place whilst I was at work. He offered to have a look at the starting issue at the same time. The result of this is that apparently the timing was way out: about 45 degrees and after adjusting it, Clem starts. Apparently the dizzy clamp was loose. I haven't touched the clamp at all, but in the course of WD40 spraying, checking points gap, points spark etc I have had the dizzy cap on and off a bit since saturday. The only conclusion I can come to is that the valve was indeed stuck, and that Zed's trick of giving the carb a decent tap with the screwdriver end actually freed it up but by that time I'd inadvertently moved the distributor so much it wouldn't start anyway. I can't think of any other answer. Either way, my van now starts apparently (i haven't made it home yet to see) and thanks to all the advice on here I have now had the courage to remove spark plugs, check points gaps, remove air filters, and generally play around with my engine a bit more with increasing confidence. So thank you all very much!
Ooooh. I was hoping for a 1000 post epic! (Scottish Darren) Only kidding , great news you got it fixed.
You`re very welcome - but we were ALL wrong I think a communal hanging of heads in shame should be in order Loose dizzy clamp eh ? Never would`ve guessed that without `hands on` but glad you`re sorted and had a tinker inside the engine bay
