Hi Guys, Bus out of storage soon and the list of jobs is piling up as usual. The engine was rebuilt about 4 years ago, and when I change the oil when servicing this year I was wondering whether it was a good idea to use an oil additive or engine flush when chasing to get any gungey cr@p out ?
If the engine has ‘gungey cr@p’ in it the oil probably isn’t hot enough – do you have a working thermostat? It is far better to use high quality oil that contains an additive pack (and ZDDP) to protect the engine than try to make a poor quality oil better with extra additives. And if the oil already has the necessary additives adding more doesn’t make it better. Using flushing oil may dislodge debris that will immediately be pumped back into the engine bearings – particularly if you have a type 1 engine with no oil filter.
I now try and do oil changes towards the end of the season, so that it has clean oil in when it is stood for longer periods
Valvoline VR1 Racing 20-50w mineral oil I used to always use quantum oil until they stopped making it, VR1 was recommended by the engines builder (non standard engine)
I've been using this in my MGA for last 5 years - oil pressure stays up better when the engine is hot - but not thought of using it in the bus - and I've 4 gallons sat in the garage - ready for next oil change on both of them!
This - any gungy stuff isn't likely to be doing that much harm where it is at 4 years old, better to leave it stuck there rather than try and get it to circulate through the bearings. If it does look gungy, drive it more and change the oil regularly!!
Will be doing my 500 mile (first) oil change this weekend, is it sufficient to just drain through sump plug or should i remove strainer too? Never had sump plug before
Id I'd take the strainer out for peace of mind jez. You usually get a fine metallic hue to the oil on a new recon, so give it a wash in petrol before you stick it back in.
1600 TP no thermostat, no flaps as they were missing. i fitted an external oil filter after the rebuild. have been using SAE 30 morris stuff on the recommendation of the old school engine builder.