engine and gearbox coming out

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Rich83, Dec 18, 2017.

  1. This isn't unknown. Maybe worth drilling out the new coupler, or (better idea) use the old frame and just change the rubber buffers.
     
  2. Rich83

    Rich83 Supporter

    The old frame got binned last week :eek: It's a genuine coupler from Alan scholfeild so am surprised it doesn't fit. I'll have another look later and see what's up.
     
  3. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    You might have a burr on the end of the hockey stick or inside the coupler. Feel around the end of the hockey stick for roughness.. use emery paper on it to smooth it. And check inside the coupler for swarf.
    Before pulling the gearbox.
     
  4. Rich83

    Rich83 Supporter

    Managed to bend the coupler downwards and run a drill up the inside. It only needed a little bit taking off.

    Wish I'd put the lower tinware on under cylinder 1 nightmare doing it with the engine in !! :mad:

    Got my Amazon prime delivery of gearbox and engine oil arriving tonight so should hopefully be up and running tomorrow. :)
     
    Valveandy likes this.
  5. Rich83

    Rich83 Supporter

    Latest issue. :mad:

    Had the nose cone off twice now , I've lined the 3 rods up which I hadn't first time round. Can still only move the gearstick forwards and backwards. Selecting gears is just not happening at the moment. Do the hook have to be in or out or doesn't it matter. Greatly appreciate any pointers :thumbsup:
     
  6. A while since I did mine, but it's easier if the selector rods are in the "neutral" position ie mid-position for 1/2 and 3/4, neutral position for reverse. From memory, you'll only have to line up one, as they're interlocked. Make sure the slider shaft is in position on the brackets, and that the hook of the hockey stick is engaged in the ball end of the sliding gear selector. Then feed the nosecone over the hockey stick shaft and tighten it down (more fiddling may be required).

    Up-end your box, attach the coupler to the end of the hockey stick shaft, put on a thick glove (it hurts), then see if you can select all gears by rotating the shaft (it doesn't rotate by much, maybe 10-15ยบ) and pushing and pulling the the coupler. From memory (which may be defective), central position gives you 1st/neutral/2nd, twist to right gives you 3rd/neutral/4th, twist fully to the left gives you neutral/reverse. You need to return the coupler to a neutral position each time before you can swivel to the next one.

    Should be able to select all gears with some hefty pushing, pulling, twisting and swearing.

    a gear selector 6s.jpg
     
    Last edited: Jan 27, 2018
    72devon likes this.
  7. Rich83

    Rich83 Supporter

    That's great info. The gearbox is fitted so no real way of testing it until I offer it back up to the shift rod assembly and get in the van. I've attached the clutch cable but just goes in and out of 1st/2nd or 3rd/4th. With the front rod not attached there is some rotation to the long rod going down to the coupler but is difficult to fully test. Looks like the nose is coming off again :( there's lots of swearing :mad:
     
  8. I'd disconnect the long shift rod from the coupler, stick the gear lever in second so that the rod's pulled right forwards, and try and operate the coupler by hand as above. Should be possible with sufficient swearing. The coupler's really stiff to work by hand without the leverage provided by the gear lever. You should get three selections middle and right (gear/neutral/gear), two selections (reverse and neutral) on the left.

    Having the clutch installed (and engaged) might make it more difficult.
     
    72devon likes this.
  9. Rich83

    Rich83 Supporter

    Ok I'm under the van using the mole grips I seem to be able to select gears with the front rod disconnected. Result :thumbsup: 1517083135610400367158.jpg

    Must be some issues with the gearstick? I presume the grub screw underneath determines its orientation from below.
     
  10. Rich83

    Rich83 Supporter

    I'm guessing because I've had the nosecone machined I need to adjust the alignment from inside the cab. Will have a go tomorrow and report back. :thumbsup:
     
  11. I can't think why, if you've just had a bit shaved off. The hockey stick shaft should take that up: it'll still be in the stick out the same amount, and have the same amount of travel.

    The grub screw should lock the coupler so when it's in the 1st/2nd position, it's horizontal, which means the cranked end of the long selector is also horizontal.

    Is the front section of the shaft locked correctly with the collar?
     
  12. Rich83

    Rich83 Supporter

    Yes the grub screw is locating but the gearstick is hard over one way when in Neutral. I was told the nosecone had about 1.5mm taken off. It's got a 1mm spacer put in so I'm a little sort on thicknesses. I think this may be causing the alignment issues and why I need to tweak it a bit.
     
  13. Rich83

    Rich83 Supporter

    Whilst messing under the front end around the coupling I noticed the long rod going down the length of the van has two holes. :eek:

    I disconnected it at the back by the gearbox rotated the rod 180deg and it now all works. :)
     
    paradox and snotty like this.
  14. So the cranked bit at the back end was upside down?
     
  15. Rich83

    Rich83 Supporter

    No the coupling is fine . Was the long rod that goes through the middle, mines a 72 crossover. I may have an extra linkage before the nosecone as I can't seem to locate a pic of my setup. I undid the long tube from this linkage spun the tube round and that has sorted it.
     

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