End Play ( crank end float)

Bentley shows test set up with no barrels on the case, quite few say on a fully built up motor, some say built up but with distributor drive out... anyone got a good reason to pick what stage to test for setting shims?.... before I get all the barrels on and heads bolted up....

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Assuming you mean crank endfloat, any permutation where the crank’s in the case with the case bolted up and the flywheel’s on. So...build your engine up, then check it.

 

I build the engine on a stand with the crank pushed towards the flywheel end so it’s in its running position and set the end float as a last step but it doesn’t really matter when you do it.

 

I suppose the only possible reason for leaving out the distributor drive gear is that you might confuse the hitting the gear with the actual endfloat hitting the shims/bearing measurement.
Anyway its a good idea to leave out the distributor drive gear until fairly late in the process. The feel as you turn the engine backwards, the gear rises up and graunches the brass drive on the crank is one of those very down moments.
Like blowing up the engine in the first place. It has to come apart and have a new gear painfully fitted..
If you want to put the drive gear in early , fit the bottom half of a distributor in place to stop it rising up.
I have some experience here.

 

Have an old dissy bolted in to hold in place but can pull it all out if requied..

...3-0 for doesn't matter..... but lighter the better for getting off the stand to fit the fly wheel as far as I'm concerned

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It doesn't matter. The dissy and drive gear are miles away from the crank.

 

I would think the best way to do it accurately would be bare. The clutch will put a lot of force on it that you won't be able to with con rods etc in the way.

 

The flywheel and shims will control the endfloat, against the rear bearing face. The conrods wouldn't have any effect.

 

Yeah I know how it works, why would you want it all bolted up though, just more effort to move it !

 

'Cos you need the crank in its proper operating position.

 

I did mine with barrels on no problem. mines a drive plate not a flywheel being an auto

 

Con rod side clearance and gudgeon pin float is way more than crank end play and it makes no difference to the effort required to move the crank whether the barrels and pistons are fitted or not.

Incidentally, don’t set the end play too tight, better to be towards the top end of the spec (0.003” – 0.005” or 0.07mm - 0.13mm). And you need three shims.

 

Thanks all

Got two pots already on so I'll set endplay after putting the rest on.



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