EJ20 Aussie Bay

Discussion in 'Modified Shizzle' started by Baysearcher, Jul 30, 2014.

  1. rickyrooo1

    rickyrooo1 Hanging round like a bad smell

    mmmm, with an auto? that put me off with mine to be honest, i'm not sure it has been done? certainly wouldn't be as cheap.
     
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  3. I had a Subaru fitted a couple of years ago and it have used it a lot since including 2 trips into and around the Pyrenees and I would say it is totally worth it. I can now relax when the kids borrow it and find that driving it is a lot easier. I have the original 3 rib which I originally intended to upgrade but didn't bother because it works fine for me. (Whenever we go to France I avoid the motorways and so it is fine for tootling through the towns and villages etc)
    The heating is great - the heater box is situated inside the cab with the spare wheel under the passenger seat. The gear came from Fellows but it was fitted here in Manchester. It was not cheap but I have had nothing done since and I think it was great value for money.
     
    Merlin Cat and MorkC68 like this.
  4. so what engine/car/ age of car/ model type is the best to use for a scooby conversion?
     
  5. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]

    Most just use EJ20s in bays, but the EJ22 or EJ25 will go in. I'd go Stage 2 for the extra few ponies. H6 would be fun I'd imagine but no idea if anyone's actually done it yet.
     
  6. Is ej20 the engine model/type? Any difference in using an automatic engine?
     
  7. rickyrooo1

    rickyrooo1 Hanging round like a bad smell

    when i went to fellowes with @Moons they said they used auto engines a lot as they hadn't been as thrashed.
     
    Moons likes this.
  8. Hmmmm interesting.

    Now what about a heater up front?
     
  9. rickyrooo1

    rickyrooo1 Hanging round like a bad smell

    he has a heater box under the front where the belly plate is
     
  10. I have a heater matrix under the cab floor. I think Baysearcher's is mounted a bit further back (otherwise it'd interfere with his steering rack conversion). I'm not sure it matters too much where it is, except with regard to heat losses from the heater matrix to the totem pole, and also heat losses if it's too far from the radiator. I've got various pipes lagged to prevent the heat from being lost in the airflow under the bus, and also I have a bellypan.
     
    pkrboo likes this.
  11. As Doug mentioned ej20 is the way forward with a bay. The ej2.2 is supposed to be the best but they are very rare.
    Ej25 is a good option and most of the T25 gang go with these for a bit of extra torque, although they are rumoured to have head gasket issues. An H6 would be awesome, there is a guy on FB that put one in a bay, but I think a Subarugears gear box would suit these better.
    Foresters and legacy make the best donors as they may not of been thrashed as much, not sure an auto will be so easy to transplant without additional mods.
    Older models with phase 2 engines(1999 onwards) are the best to use as newer engines require a lot more work on the looms.
    I didn't bother with a heater in mine as I have a propex with I use in the winter.

    @Baysearcher when you say stage 2 do you mean the phase 2 engine?
     
  12. Cool so what is the latest year to hat is possible, easily. 02,04?
     
  13. Baysearcher

    Baysearcher [secret moderator]

    Probably @chrisgooner, the later engine with the smooth heads.
     
  14. Yeah that's what I've got.
     
  15. Not completely sure tbh 2003/2004 rings a bell but it could be earlier. Mines a 99. It is doable on the newer engines I think it needs a bit more trickery. I'll ask on the FB forum and let you know.
     
  16. Anything later than about 2004 means you're messing with a CANbus system, which is significantly more difficult to adapt the wiring loom. Earlier cars have simpler systems and therefore easier. I'm on the Subaru Powered Volkswagens group on Facebook, and some of them have discussed using engines from later cars, but it requires a specialist to deal with the wiring loom, and some electronic trickery to fool the CANbus into thinking everything (including things like ABS sensors) is still connected and working.
     

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