Mike, it's a different type of combustion system though... so I would confirm what exactly was fitted first!!
OK, will play it safe and not restrict the exhaust diameter. Available on eBay are 42mm stainless pipes and also 38mm "repair" pipes to splice the system together in both straight and right angle.
I have a query how do you check there isnt any monoxide getting into sleeping area? Do I need a monoxide alarm...
If it makes you sleep easier then yes but these heater are really just a heat exchanger with a fan on the end. The heat and the air are totally separate
The only issue you may encounter is that if you are parked up using the heater then some the heaters exhaust fumes 'may' be sucked into the engine bay and re circulated but this is only a problem if you do not have the snorkel piece that re-route pre heated air from the cab
There's no way I'd have any type of heater on while sleeping in the van, and I also turn the gas off at the bottle overnight. Safety is paramount. The Eberspacher is a serious bit of kit, superbly made with several safety devices. The only exit for the combustion gases is via the exhaust. which must be taken out of the engine bay and exit the vehicle in a similar place as the engine exhaust. It's theoretically possible that exhaust gas could re-enter the vehicle via an open window, hence why I wouldn't think of using it overnight.
Same here, to an extent. I'd trust a modern, recent Eberspacher - nothing older than a B1L. I can't see the enthusiasm for ancient models. A bit of retro is nice, but not on a device that could potentially kill you. If the heat exchanger has a leak or has partially burnt away, carbon monoxide could escape into the heating air. The temperature switches, especially the overheat 'stat, also need checking. German regs for an Ebers require the heat exchanger to be changed every 10 years.
I've set myself the target for this week of cutting the holes in the bulkheads and fitting the heat ducting. Plenty of info HERE. I suppose I could make up a template from the ones in the photo, but are accurate ones available? This will be a precision job, being so close to the tank.
This is where getting them safety checked is the way forward!! Nothing wrong with old kit as long as it definitely confirmed as safe
There are some install pictures on thesamba with measurements. Are you taking the fuel tank out. I did and cut the holes with an 4 inch grinder. Much easier than the hole trick
The heater is now in position, wiring connected and the recirculating pipe fitted. The s/s exhaust pipe is fitted and exits the vehicle near the engine exhaust. I've not done anything with the combustion air inlet pipe, leaving it as a hole in the base of the heater. Should I bother, given that it'll be drawing air in from the engine compartment - ie plentiful fresh air??
You want to put a pipe on it. If you leave it off the unit will draw too much cold air in and run lean. The pipe also add's back pressure.
I think I remember reading about the length affecting the performance, can't check at the moment, at work
Point taken. There's some details on http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/manuals/bn4install/bn4_tech_description_and_install_instructions.pdf Will sort something out tomorrow Something I noticed when fitting the heater support bracket - the holes drilled looked to bolt into a "box section" of the chassis. Difficult to attach a nut the other side. I instead put in a couple of very hefty self tappers. They seem very secure but I'd have preferred a nut the other side Still deciding where's the best/neatest place to tap into the fuel line - any ideas gratefully received.
Seems reasonable, but could any lean running be corrected by altering the metering pump?? Presently it's set up between 13 and 15mm per 200 "clicks" of the pump, which could be increased in the absence of an inlet pipe... Just thinking aloud..........
Most likely could but it would take forever to get just right and I wouldn't know how to test it. I can take a picture of mine to show how it connects if you like. I'll also show you the fuel line. Let me know
Thanks, but I think there's a picture in the docs linked to above regarding the inlet pipe length. It could be that it needs the pipe in a different installation , such as the enclosed space in front of a Beetle etc, to get to a good throughput of fresh air outside. The camper's up for an MOT in a while, could get the heater exhaust CO2 checked at the same time, adjusting the pump to get it right. But the bench test seemed fine, with a nice clean exhaust so maybe it's not so critical. A picture of the fuel supply would be appreciated though Tomorrow is the big day, I'm hoping to finish the job
Hi Sorry to start this up again but I've just bought a bn4 hopefully not in to bad a condition so I guess after reading above 1st thing I need is someone to saftey check / service and replace any damaged inoperative bits I'm in the Warrington area north west anyone nearby that knows where I can get this done? I think it's fairly complete although there is no exhaust so I will have to source that and a fuel pump? I will add a couple pics once I work out how to ;-)
