Seriously considering painting Erik myself, loads of good stuff about rustoleum being the best pound (cost of job) for pound (value of van) for a DIY job. After getting excited, it seems I still need loads of quality prep, and a spray gun is better than a roller (of course). So, am now thinking, what's the point in rustoleum. If I have to do all the work anyway, and I have a compressor to spray anyway, what's the hoohah, and perhaps I should just 2K it myself anyway. Anyone know what the hoohah is about rustoleum? Should I stick with "proper" paint? Hope my question makes sense. Jim 1979 Super Viking, 2lt type 4, Automatic
If you've got the kit to spray 2 pack then it's a no-brainer ... Brush /rollering on Rustoleum is a cheap way of getting a decent finish at a bargainous price compared to paying someone else thousands to spray the van . A downside of rustoleum is it can't be easily sprayed over with conventional paint , so I've been told ... Sent from my SM-A320FL using Tapatalk
If you've got the kit to spray, I'd do it that way with 2 pack. If doing it by roller or brush, Rustoleum can be a good cheap way to do it.
Not a lot of prep with Rustoleum. It’ll go over anything that’s clean and sound. No need for primer, even. As above, if you’ve got the kit for 2k, do it in that.
Also slightly safer than 2K. If you do end up using 2K make sure you take the proper precautions. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I'm in the same position. The consensus seems to be that rollered rustoleum gives a decent finish without too much hassle and cost. 2k requires more PPE, equipment and prep but can achieve an excellent finish (see @JamesLey s restoration!)
As long as you’ve got it tucked in your pants you should be fine. Otherwise yes, overspray is a pain to get off. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
As above really... if you have the facility to spray, and can do the prep, spray it. The main downside with rustolem is that if you, or future owners want it painted properly, someone's got a lot of bare metalling to do..
I have done similar with white Hammerite which also has slow drying properties. A week or two after painting the roof rack in a thickish layer of Hammerite, I pressure washed it. The pain of picking off the little sticky flakes of paint that resulted, from the roof and the neighbour's car made it quite a lesson.. You can hide a rough preparation with thick paint. But all paints show up poor preparation with a poorer finish than with good prep.
The 2k paint alternative requires expertise and quality spray equipment and somewhere indoors undercover and the prepping before spraying needs a perfect surface as the paint is quite thin and any imperfections would stand out. And its expensive, especially if you pay for the prepping and spraying. I am a fan of Rustoleum and done it twice successfully using the roller and brush method. As already said, its a good paint, cheap, can thin a bit with white spirit and gives an acceptable finish and being a thicker paint it flows and covers all but the worst blemishes. And you can do it outside in dry weather and won't upset the neighbours with any spray drift. Spraying would need to be done undercover. Another big plus for Rustoleum for me is any mistakes can be easily corrected and repainted. When we painted my son's T25, we found a few blemishes after the first coat, which we just sanded down and applied a thin skim of filler and repainted, easy.
Rustoleum worked for me as I was working around my van 1 panel at a time and I couldn't afford a spray job. It still looks good a few years down the line but I have quite a few stone chips on the front panel and a couple small rust bubbles coming through- not bad for a cheap temp paint job that's been on it for up to 10 years! Will need to strip it all off when it comes to repainting as everything reacts with it!
