Door cards and keeping the water out.

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by tommygoldy, May 24, 2015.

  1. Yes you still need a plastic membrane BUT these won't get ruined if a bit if water gets on them
     
    tommygoldy and snotty like this.
  2. WHS....the membrane is simply a thin plastic sheet stretched over the inside face of the door to keep moisture from penetrating whatever trim cards you fit...the vent is an additional means to allow air to circulate within the space to encourage evaporation
     
    tommygoldy likes this.
  3. we used cheap sheet plastic off a roll and pritstick to hold it in place till we got the door card back on.
    Also park up hill and the water wont come in to the van via the lower front part of the door. ours lives outside all year. no problem
     
    vanorak likes this.
  4. Pritt stick, nice idea
     
  5. I had the same issue with my doors. Took door cards off, no membrane and cards ruined by wet.

    Inside of doors rusted. So de-rusted and treated the doors inside and painted them well. Sorted a broken door strap. Sorted a dodgy lock.

    Cleared the door drain holes. Got sheets of pre cut to size poly membrane off ebay (you can do your own and use thicker polythene sheet). I used two layers and stuck layer 1 to door with black mastic string all round and made the flaps as said above, then stuck on layer 2.

    When all stuck down nicely, screwed new door cards on. The water now drains out the bottom of the doors as it should. Keep my van outside, raining constantly, but door cards dry.
     
    vanorak likes this.
  6. Yep :thumbsup: already got my head around that - thanks/sorry :D. I ordered a pair of membranes ages ago, they're waiting to be fitted but my current door cards are horrible and I've also been procrastinating about repairing my locks etc... am getting on with it now.

    Not quite got my head around how to best to fit them around the vent though. Is the idea that they should be tucked (loosely) behind this bit? Where best to make the cut? Should it go over the front half (right hand side in pic) and behind the rear (slipped through the little notch in the side)? Thinking out loud now but that seems to make sense. :)

    [​IMG]

    And yeah there might be a bit of rust hiding under that aluminium tape. It's also there to stop the water getting in. The other side is solid, thankfully...


    That'll make for a bit of a long walk home... :D
     
  7. There used to be a guide on the sMba showing ultimate tip top making and fitting off the plastic membrasxnes, yessir, I can boogiue.
     
    tommygoldy likes this.
  8. Cut a flap about the length of the vent pressing, then tuck it behind, through the slot thoughtfully provided by the manufacturer (which you've found already ;)). Your vents will be splash-free...
     
    pkrboo and tommygoldy like this.
  9. My doors were just as bad. Sort out the rust and clear out the muck at the bottom and drain holes. Do a paint job on them, hand paint, lots of it. I used Rustoleum Combicolor straight from the tin. Hammerite just as good.

    Do all that first. Then do the membrane and door cards stuff.
     
  10. My priority at the moment is to stop the cab getting wet. Water's pooling up at the top of the wheelarch around the seatbelt mount and in the step and I don't want rust to set in in either of these places. They could do with some paint too, but need to be dry first.

    If the door is going to be painted it'll need proper repairs first really. To be honest I'm considering a new replacement at some point on this side although I have asked @davidoft to give me a rough quote for a repair. Besides the stuff that looks like surface rust is mostly old contact adhesive and waxoyl I think - looks worse than it is. The bottom edge on this door has been filled once before and needs more than rustoleum to save it!

    Plenty of bits to paint on my to do list though!
     
  11. Yes its always about priorities. On my son's T25 the doors were pretty bad in places and he bought a couple of used ones off ebay that were sound and painted them to match.

    Luckily they fitted ok, but on Bays I think door fitting may be an issue. If your doors fit well, may be better to repair them.

    I had the same water ingress as you once I had the door cards off. I just put towels down to soak it up until I sorted the doors out.
     
    tommygoldy likes this.
  12. Got a reply from Evam in the Netherlands:


    The 30-425 with hole is € 160,--

    The 33-425 without holes is € 150,--

    The prices are as a set including clips.

    Shipping this is € 29,95.


    Not cheap.
     
  13. Pretty sure they were about £50 a pair when I was looking sat thed!m......
     
  14. How much is them in English quids?
     
  15. How much is them in English quids?
     
  16. How much is them in English quids?
     
  17. £142.89 inc postage :eek:
     
  18. Feck that
     

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