I have looked but can't find an answer. I have a 73 Late Bay with a 1600 TP engine. I have a DVDA distributor, 113905205AJ and a Solex 34 PICT-3 with a base number of 325-3. The chart that I have found says I should have a 113905205AN dizzy. Before I have to replace 1 or the other, how important is it to exactly match these 2, or are these 2 close enough? Cheers
If it is all working now, I wouldnt touch it. The AJ is an SVDA, the AN one that would have been fitted is a DVDA. For USA emissions, retarding timing at idle. These days people block the idle vacuum connection at the carburettor end and use an SVDA, with only ported vacuum that is zero at idle and increases with engine load at part throttle, before tailing off at max throttle. In terms of driveability, its the vacuum advance and the centrifugal advance that matter, the two curves are more or less the same. And any £7.50 Chinese distributor marked up to £39.99 and sold in the UK will be worse than a good Bosch..(just go digging on Alibaba.com for some eye opening car parts prices.. spark plugs for 8p each..) The idle retard vanishes as soon as you want the engine to do any work. Take a look here for scans from my 1974 VW engine manual .. the last 2 letters in the file name.. https://www.hamble.online/vowo14/curves/
Sorry to jump in I have a similar question I have 1300sp engine solex 31pict carb and svda petrinox distributor I think that's all correct and no matter what I seem to do I have a slight hesitation at low rpm any ideas Sent from my JSN-L21 using Tapatalk
Is the accelerator pump in the carb working properly? Generally, the distributor has nothing to do with what carb is fitted.
No idea mate how would I check that all this is a massive learning curve for me Sent from my JSN-L21 using Tapatalk
If you remove the air filter then look down the carb barrel, as you actuate the throttle you should see a squirt of petrol. The engine doesn't need to be running to see it
OK thank you I will check I assume it does as it seems to fire up straight away and idle really well pulls off fine just then seems to have a hesitation every time u change gear and give it Abit of gas it sort of bogs down then starts to pull Sent from my JSN-L21 using Tapatalk
I found the accelerator pump adjustment could cause a 'bogging out' effect if adjusted to far toward the + end of the slot. I was surprised how sensitive the adjustment can be.
Hi there I haven’t had the van running yet, so I just wanted to start with the correct parts. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1300 SP would have had a 30PICT1 carb originally so you have a mismatch, really needs checking if it has compatible jets etc.
And as always, make sure you have all the stock air intake setup with your carburettor, so it gets hot air on cold days. If you have a chromed filter plonked on top the air that sucks is too cold on a cold day (I checked the output of my air cleaner is about 27C once the engine has warmed up, even on a cold day) So you start having to mess with feeding far too much petrol so that some remains in the air by the time it reaches the cylinders. Once it has warmed up a bit that extra fuel is too much and you are falling off the other side of the power/mixture curve where the extra petrol is slowing the burn and reducing power. Worst case it judders to a stop when you are pootling along..
