The standard diff is open but even with a LSD the CV shouldn’t fall apart. I hope not anyway, I’ve just had a locker diff fitted to mine.
oooh good question! edit: Second thoughts he said above he has drive for a couple of miles then the cv comes apart, fixes it then has drive again until other side came off
i bought them through cool air, not sure of brand. I emailed them to see if any recent issues but none reported. So I'm assuming joints are good I will measure the shafts this weekend but I'm sure they are the same length as they were stripped and stored together.
Thinking about it. I did notice 3rd gear was hard to select when moving, also 2nd on the way back down . When stationary and idling they seem easy to find. Would this cause pressure on the cv joints?
If they’re the £17.50 ones manufactured by JOPEX, I’d spend a bit/a lot more and get GKN Lobro CV joints. https://www.coolairvw.co.uk/Item/Sh..._-_T2_1968-79-C-_T25_1979-92_-_GKN_Löbro.html
Or these https://www.brickwerks.co.uk/cv-joint-kit-t3-rear.html Same as the above from coolair I'll wager, but significantly less dollar. I did 20k last year on 6 of these (4 rear, 2 on the front) so can vouch for them lasting at least that long! GKN, oem
There is a right and a wrong way to fit the ball bearings in the ball joints. One way the balls lock in and it can articulate that is the right way. It can be hard to get the balls in the right way but it just takes a bit of fiddling not force. The wrong way the balls fall out if you pull on the shaft and it does not articulate well . You can drive like that but the balls can burst the joint or just fall out.. The difference is 60 degrees rotation of the outer relative to the inner of the CV joint on assembly. Big gap between slots faces little gap is the right way round.
Yes they were I've just ordered a set of cv joints and shafts ready to fit from 'just kampers' for both sides. I'll know for sure then if the problem is elsewhere
I found this on the samba site the first time I had the joint fall apart....very helpful I thought https://goo.gl/images/MTjSWL
Hi jack, when you have both your shafts removed just check that the diff is working properly; put it in any gear and turn one output flange by hand to see that the opposite side rotates freely in the opposite direction. Also check that there is no significant end play on the flanges and that they are a firm fit on the diff splines. For CV joint assembly have a look at the photo on my Lottie restro thread, there are several ways to get it wrong. Might also be worth looking at the gearbox/engine mountings and the suspension arm mountings as it is hard to imagine how the balls could escape on correct length shaft without significant lateral movement of the transmission in relation to the hubs.
The other thing to bear in mind is that there are quite a few driveshafts that will happily bolt on but be a different length. There are alsl some Porsche ones the same lenght but with different spline pitch.. i found that one changing CV joints had to get driveshafts too..
