Hey guys. I've got a sloppy stick. Well gearstick, planning on replacing the bushes and coupler is this the bushing kit I need. https://www.justkampers.com/211-798...w-t2-split-1955-1967-vw-t2-bay-1967-1979.html Asking because someone in the QaA mentions another 2 bushes needed. Some places mention engine and gearbox out which I would rather not do to be honest. Any tips would be helpful. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
That does look like everything you’d need minus the rubber boots that fits either end. Bentley manual has the diagram in which helps. It is an engine and transmission out job though. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
sake, really That's the last thing I want to do to be honest. I need to get hold of the Bentley manual, (just remembered i have a copy on my google drive) Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
I found with mine, most of the slop was caused by worn gearstick, broken plastic front bush and worn gearbox coupling. There is still some slack, but like you I did not want to take the engine and gearbox out just to replace the rear shuttle cock bushes. I had an assistant move the gearstick while I checked under the van for slop. The repro plastic front bush is poor quality and some folks make their own.
This might be my first task, im having horrific trouble selecting 3rd and 4th, currently it needs to be slammed into gear which isn't good.
The selector plate bolted inside the cab floor may be worn as well then or may need slight adjustment to find all gears. Mine was worn out and it was fun adjusting the new one, but it made a difference. Maybe ask someone to be in the cab and select 3rd and 4th and you get underneath and see what's going on.
Good idea, think im going to replace the front bush's, coupler and whole new gearstick assembly, before i get drastic with the rear support bush. Thinking about it my gearstick is looking a bit worn, i but that and a trashed coupler is the majority of the issues.
I bought the Jk set they were rubbish the moldings were terrible some I had to cut all the excess plastic off them with a Stanley knife. Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk
Unless you're taking the engine and box out for other reasons it's not worth doing so just to fit the shuttlecocks on the shift rod. Replace the front bush(*snigger*) and the rear coupling and look at adjusting the shift plate at the bottom of the gearstick. The end of the gearstick has a metal ball on it which wears too but its possible to build it back up with weld and grind carefully to shape.
The best gearbox shift coupler to use is either a good condition OG one or a welded up EMPI one with polyurethane bushes. The welds stop the cage rotating relative to the collar with the screw in it. Leave the plastic to one side when welding Then you use a proper pointy screw in the screw hole bang in the middle of the gearbox selector rod. And do it up with locking wire. Bolly champers cork wire from the Esher Hall bar at Sandown Park is best as Simon @1973daisey can confirm. At the front make sure the shifter plate is lined up properly and is not too worn, or 3-4 may be slightly to the left of the right hand stop, making it hard to find. And the nasty nylon bushing at the front needs replacing often. So far, fixing the issues at the ends of the shift rod have solved all my shifter problems. Yes the gearbox nose drips oil but that stops rust .
