Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Tilly, Jun 18, 2018.
Thanks guys. Strange I've never made a brake pipe before. First time for everything.
It's very therapeutic
Don't forget to put the fittings on before you flare both ends ...
Is 10mmx1mm the correct size fitting even though it's a 3/16" pipe? Think I'll change them all and the junctions. How many fittings in all are there for a complete set? Was going to get the the rear drum service kit from C&C too:
There'll soon be nothing original left on this bus!
Sorry Tilly, didn't mean to hijack your thread - hope it's all relevant.
Think you’re right with the fittings thread - someone will confirm. 3/16” is the size - they metrificated it (4.7mm?), but it’s really still Imperial, I believe.
If you’re splurging, might actually be worth getting a pair of pipe-bending pliers, but I ended up not using mine (thumbs only). Make sure the edge on the pliers doesn’t notch the tube, which the cheapies tend to do.
Thanks Snotty. Just praying the master cylinder and servo are OK. Discs and calipers to get to yet too.
As long as you bend the pipe around something for the tighter radiuses you will be OK. I used a socket at first
Use the old pipes for an exact copy. A piece of string to measure the length. Defo use a pipe cutter to cut the pipe. NOT a hacksaw.
Before you make the flare, check that the inside of the pipe is clear. you might have to just open it up again. I used a size 2 Philips screwdriver to do this but you can get a special tool . If you are using a MINI PIPE CUTTER you will be fine.
OH!! and BTW. don't forget to put the union on before you make the flare. Its very annoying. (not that I have ever done that. That would be a silly thing to do).
Thank you for all the tips, certainly helps with the confidence
It's easy, especially with kunifer pipe. Go for it!
My insurance doesn't cover "Loss or damage resulting from incorrectly maintaining or fuelling the car or from use of substandard fuel, lubricants or parts".
Picture the scene, you're driving along with your copper brake pipes and due to the widely known work hardening issue, your brake pipe severs just behind the flare. That's where they tend to go. You kill a flock of orphans riding around on nuns or something. Maybe a three legged dog called Lucky. Doesn't matter.
Your insurance company is notified of your leaking brake pipe and hands the vehicle over to an accident investigator, who would liase with an appropriate automotive engineer to determine whether your modification from original spec was "substandard". They would look up ISO 4068, DIN 74232, Din 74233, and DIN 74234 and notice that there is no provision for copper brake pipes- just Bundy tube, steel tube and Cunifer tube. At that point, there's no official document which says what you did is OK. There's just a series of official documents stating what IS ok, and your copper tube isn't on it.
Next step, they refuse you insurance based on their own findings. You can argue with them, of course. You'd probably end up doing that in court, because of all of the dead nunphans n'stuff. The judge will ask you "how can you prove to me that you modified your car in a safe manner? Because the insurance company's chartered engineer doesn't think that you did".
And then you'll be all on your todd, trying to prove that your nun-killing camper is actually very safe, but having no real evidence that your brake pipes are even better than, say, drink straws sellotaped together.
Now, look. I'm not saying that this will definitely happen. All I'm saying is that it CAN happen- it's a real path that accident investigators go down all the time (Land Rover in a river, anyone?). I'd not be scared of travelling in a car with copper brake pipes, I just wouldn't advise other people to fit them, and tell them that there's no chance they'll get in trouble for it. Especially when enough cunifer tube to do a whole car is a tenner.
As for the asbestos- Asbestos shoes have been banned because they kill people. Double-brazed brake pipes have not been banned, because they don't. They are in fact still readily available, just harder to bend- which isn't much of a legal defense.
Not meaning to offend anyone- like I say, it's not a modification that particularly bothers me (and I design brake systems for a living). I just want folks to think about this stuff.
Excellent knowledge. I'll be using cunifer.
Don't use conifer. You'll be hoovering up needles for weeks afterwards.
Is this still the best bits to buy?
@Tilly did it work ok for you?
That’s the tool I bought, and it works just fine . Have a bit of a practice before you get stuck in.
We had a microbore pipe bender worked nice to get the tighter radius's ... but thumbs also work..
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Sorry for the delay yes that's the tool as Snotty says have a practice but it works great
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