Hi I have been looking at getting a brake caliper seal kit for the van, one caliper is sticking, I dont know what caliper I have ATE or Girling its the same as this type I expect the bleed nipples will snap so I will order some new but what size thread are these too? Thanks
Forget about refurbing it - spend £65 and get a replacement ..... Snapped bleed nipples are par for the course and can be a barsteward to remove . I`ll say it again for the hard of hearing .... FORGET ABOUT REFURBING IT - SPEND £65 AND GET A REPLACEMENT ...
If you are set on a refurb mate and are anxious re getting that nipple out i suggest you visit local comm. garage,find oldest mechanic there ,show/explain situation appeal to his many years experience whilst waving a £5 and (well from my own experience)he will no doubt rise to the challenge .>>combination of Looseoil wire brush ,heat and time , lots of time ,and he will know the size ,best wishes.
The bleed nipples begin life as 7mm but will rust down to 6.35 mm so the wrong end of the brake spanner works... And you might get lucky and they come out without shearing off using mole grips and carefully applying torque. "Worked for me"
Thanks here is another photo, i don't mind having a go at refurbing them for £20 for the seal kit it's worth a go
I don't know if it is the where the brake pipe enters - my old calipers had ATE stamped on them and came out of the centre, but my new calipers had the brake pipe coming out from the top ...but was also stamped ATE. You can tell the difference from the retaining springs and backing pads: http://vwt2bay.webs.com/photos/PDF MECH DOC/vw caliper disc diagram.pdf By the looks of it you have ATE
Quick update took the other wheel off and I can see ATE 11 14 stamped in it and the brake line goes to the center . Thanks all
Just done the beetle calipers, they were ate with a central pipe connection too. Sorry Snotty, someone has been feeding you bs. The nipples were snapped so I carefully drilled them out. The pistons were seized so I smacked em with an hammer - unseized in no time. I did cover them with a block of wood before wacking them btw. best way to unseize pistons as they seldom seize all the way in.
Assume you split the caliper to whack the piston? I use a cheap piston compressing tool like this one.
So after you whacked and freed it I assume you didn't take it right out because I can't see how you could have? If they sieze it's rust which needs removing. If you don't remove the rust they'll seize again in no time.
Grips and a twist. I have done them before a good many times Bug ones don't sit al the way in they have a 7mm ish lip for a rubber boot, you can get a screwdriver under it if you need to, So know what you're saying. Cheers for the advice Ste.
I freed mine off by making a thick wooden brake pad and fitting it into the unsiezed side and then just used the brake pedal to push the other one out nearly all the way.