Bolting on side pans

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Ermintrude, Mar 9, 2019.

  1. Surely they need welding on for extra rigidity or there is no point ?
     
    snotty and Ermintrude like this.
  2. That’s exactly where my thinking has been going. Schofield’s say you can bolt them on but I’m guessing that’s if they’re not structural?

    Will call peter on monday as he will know.

    If they’re to be welded on, i need them soon. If bolted I can do them at techenders.

    I’m enjoying how much I’m learning about all the underside now. About time, some would say :)
     
    Last edited: Mar 9, 2019
  3. They were all out of organic Venezuelan tofu :(

    Cavities: Dynax S50 in the big aerosols :thumbsup: For your underbody, depends whether it's just surface rust or crusty stuff. Either way, wire brushing with a drill, then (the lazy way) splosh Epoxy mastic on it. Really only need to use rust inhibitor if you're going to paint it (if you use Rustoleum, no need really for the inhibitor). As you say, they're all phosphoric acid: get a big lab bottle off eBay and dilute it (also excellent for descaling your bath), and it's delicious on toast. If you're feeling really lazy, just spray waxy stuff on it: Dynax UB is good. Or even brush-paint the black Waxoyl stuff on (do it thin), works well, esp in your wheel arches.

    Anything really.
     
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  4. ^and this.
     
    Ermintrude likes this.
  5. I have a variety of areas; some I can get to with a wire brush on the drill, some surface rust I can get to with a tiny toothbrush wire brush and some crusty, but not too crusty bits I can’t get to at all :(
     
  6. If you're not too fussed, spraying everything with stuff like UB and it'll be fine. Vactan sounds similar. You can obsess about these things...
     
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  7. ...but...definitely do your cavities (pfnarr): chassis rails, inside those stupid-design double-skinned rear wheel arches, cab doors absolutely, sills...everywhere. That's where they really start rotting from the inside out. S50 in big aerosols works a treat.
     
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  8. But I am fussed. I’ve lost skin trying to get into the books and crannies!

    Ok, maybe I won’t lose sleep over it but a process that’ll help slow the old tinworm down would be good. I’m still pleasantly surprised it hadn’t eaten the chassis away, most of it is just pitting ... but we all know where that leads!
     
  9. Quite good for removing finger prints too ...... direct from your fingers ...... as I discovered when I went down to check up on Clem last week and ran my finger round the windscreen aperture whilst saying “ooh you’ve done a good job on getting rid of the rust from round here, what’s that liquid you’re using..... aaaaaargh!!!!”
     
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  10. There bits you just can't get to. It's impossible. Out with the aerosol!
     
    Ermintrude likes this.
  11. I was a bit tingly after doing the bath. Marigolds next time! It's great stuff.
     
    scrooge95 likes this.
  12. I beg your pardon? How rude, I was only asking!

    :D
     
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  13. Aerosols!
     
    Ermintrude likes this.
  14. There’s a lot of them about!


    I can put stuff in the spray gun so no need for aerosols... but what magic rust removing juice do I put I the gun?
     
    Popsy likes this.
  15. No juice is going to remove rust. A wire brush will ;)
     
    Ermintrude likes this.
  16. Bare in mind the front and middle belly pans are only bolted/ screwed on . If the sides are screwed on it has to be stronger than none atall . If YOU want them removable it’s your van ,do what you want .
     
    Ermintrude likes this.
  17. But, but... magic rust killing juice :(

    Mick suggesting bill hammer... lots of research to do. Not tonight. Beer tonight. :)
     
  18. Bill who?
     
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  19. I think he’s a Norwegian rust removal specialist
     
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  20. Ball or aerosol?
     
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