Am ready to bite the bullet and take my stock 1600 engine out to sort out plug thread to No1 cylinder (at least I hope it's just that!) have looked at JK video, through Haynes etc and am pretty handy with a spanner but thought I'd tap the font of all knowledge here too (I know, desperate times.......) Any advice on best jacking points, wheel stand positions, and whatever else trips you up will be gratefully received. Expect to deal with oil leak at bell housing too. Cheers David.
where are you im in hornchurch if you need a weekend hand. although im sposed to be doing me floor in the van.
I do it this way.... You need 2 large trolley jacks. a large block of wood at least 6" or make one from 2 or 3 blocks screwed together. a couple of brick for the front wheels. Whilst the bus is on the floor on level ground chock front wheels with bricks. Disconnect battery Disconnect wiring loom Clamp & disconnect fuel hose at bulkhead under bus. Remove engine seal. Disconnect throttle cable at carb. Take out rear tin. Place first trolley jack under engine at sump plate & take weight. Undo moushtache bar at both ends. Undo the three engine bolts accessible from under the bus then the starter motor nut accessible behind right side of fan housing, best to use a ratchet spanner here. At this point it is ready to come out so pull engine towards you with a bit of a wiggle ensuring gearbox shaft will clear clutch pressure plate. Release jack SLOWLY & drop the engine to the floor. With the other trolley jack & large block of wood jack up the van at the gearbox mounting clamp high enough for engine to be slid out clear on the first jack. Drop the van to the floor. Done! 45 mins! Whilst engine is out it is worth replacing all fuel lines. If I have missed anything someone will be along to let us know
It's pretty straightforward, the only difficult thing being getting the rear end high enough to slide the engine out from under the rear valance/bumper. Make sure you're on a really solid, stable, flat piece of ground as getting the bus up this high on a jack/axle stands is mega squeaky-bum time.
I prefer to drive the bus up on ramps as this gets over the wobbly axle stands risk. Make sure the driveway can take the pressure of axle stands - some 12mm ply pads can help stop the feet of axle stands digging in. Check the gearbox input shaft for leaking gearbox oil, take off the firewall and check tank breather hoses all round.
Jack position is paramount which is why I use the gearbox mount as the bolt heads bite into the wood as does the jack cup. As long as you are on the flat, the jack is central & your timber is big enough (I've used 3 short planks in the past) then you should be sound. This job is easier & quicker with two people but I have done it in 40 mins on my own before even with keep checking the engine is not catching on the body anywhere. Secret is get the van high enough, whip out the engine then drop the van back to ground, no need for axle stands.
Dont be scared.. in my first year of ownership I had the engine out about 5 times before going to the T2D Boot camp, between booking it and turning up at Burwell.
Don't forget to disconnect the throttle cable and when refitting rethreading the cable through the pipe that goes through the tinware.
Hello Mate, am in Benfleet. Was going to start today but ended up trying to change oven thermostat, salad for dinner!. Am busy over the weekend but thanks anyway. will gather all the info and kit that I can and see what work is like in the week. Need to source some helicoils for the spark plug. not sure what size I need, seems to be alchemy working them out!
Solid and stable (not a tory conference tag line!) can do, not so flat, gently sloping drive to the road. Can't drive her so will try and jack up on to wheel ramps as per @mikedjames preference.
