And now the Loom!

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Mark Darby, Nov 15, 2019.

  1. Haven't waded through your diag Mark, have put left and right headlights on separate fuses, yes?
    Mark Darby likes this.
  2. Indeed I have. What do reckon on the split charge circuit Snotty - it's the only bit I'm unsure of?
  3. Will have a look later :thumbsup:
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  4. The split charge looks okay to me, mine is similar but with 40-amp fuses between main battery and relay and between relay and leisure battery and from leisure battery to a 10-way leisure fuse box under the bed. But you didn’t ask me so over to snotts.:)
    Razzyh and Mark Darby like this.
  5. Thank you Westy - I did ask everyone, honest:

    "Well the loom board is ready and I've made a start. I thought I'd post my updated diagram as I've made a few changes.
    The front side light wires were connected to the headlight earth - now corrected.
    The feeds to the headlamp switch and relay now come from a dedicated 20amp fuse.
    The red/black 4mm wire from ignition to starter now goes via a 30amp fuse (I'm yet to add hotstart relay circuit).
    I had to double up the horn relay feed with the hazards but this shouldn't be an issue.
    I've added a little 4-way fuse box at the rear for the split charge circuit as I don't like inline fuses. Can anyone confirm if my split charge circuit will work as I have it now? I'm concerned with where I have the 30amp fuse in the leisure fuse box - would it be better to use a spare slot in the mini fuse box - i.e. take the wire from 87 on the split charge relay to a 30amp fuse in the 4-way and then on to the +ve on the leisure battery?

    Apart from that the diagram is pretty much there now and an improvement on the last version."

    Was just replying to Snotty's comment x

    main concern is - "would it be better to use a spare slot in the mini fuse box - i.e. take the wire from 87 on the split charge relay to a 30amp fuse in the 4-way and then on to the +ve on the leisure battery?"
  6. A few thoughts:

    - do you need the cutoff solenoid? If your Carter doesn't dribble when it's not running, that should do the job. If the solenoid fails and shuts the fuel off (albeit unlikely), it may knacker the pump. Don't really see the point of having the cutoff solenoid with that setup.
    - I'd take the supply from the pump straight from the starter solenoid stud, rather than have 100 yards of wiring to it. Can put a fuseholder (20A say) in the engine compartment together with the relay holder. Ripart do stackable stuff. The pump will take a fair bit of current, as it's doing work.
    - I'd go for 2mm2 cable for the pump, rather than 1mm2.
    - the "X" terminal from the ignition switch doesn't have +12V on it when the switch is in the start position, meaning the pump won't run when cranking.
    - small point: the "30" terminals on relays is traditionally the input (the relay common), "87" the N/O output. Doesn't really matter electrically, but worth swapping around so you don't get my OCD going.

    As before, a good opportunity to put a delay wipe relay in for the wipers. The fixed interval one is fine. I use mine all the time, and the "five strokes after washing" is handy.
    77 Westy and Mark Darby like this.
  7. Thanks for this Snotty.
    The reason for the cut-off solenoid, apart from the obvious, is an extra bit of security. There's a manual lever on it to switch the fuel off when parked up to help as an anti-theft device (it's tucked away out of sight). Besides, I've bought it now!
    Good point on the fuel pump being incorrectly connected to "X" in my diagram - changing it to connect to "15".
    I've used 1mm cable for the pump as thinwall is rated to 16.5 amps (and I've bought all my cable now) - I thought this was enough but you say the pump draws a lot of current. Would it be more than that? Presumably my 5 amp fuse is too small?
    I've switched the "30" & "87" terminals around on the fuel pump relay to avoid setting off the OCD :D
    Updated diagram coming later.
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  8. To save you commenting on your own post....

    Inset innuendo here....

    Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
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  9. Issues fixed. I know I haven't got the wiper delay in there yet - How's that go again?

    Attached Files:

  10. Cheers :thumbsup:
  11. No idea how much current the pump uses, but the KAE relay with built-in fuse has a 20A job in it. 5A is too small, I'd say. As above, I'd run the supply straight from the starter terminal to avoid voltage drops. Up to the front and back is a long run.

    Wiper relay here...
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  12. For info, ignition switch contacts (as best I can determine) below. Worth fitting a new Febi switch with handy "S" contact for your radio.

    30 - +12 from battery
    50 - to starter solenoid
    15 - +12 supply, maintained when starting
    X - +12, off when starting
    S - +12 when key in barrel
    P - +12 when ignition off, key out (n/u, parking lights?)
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  13. Ca commence!
    Doesn't look very impressive like that:
    When I consider how many hours it took to get to that!
    nobayinhell, snotty and Dubs like this.
  14. I've never seen an anorexic wiring loom before :eek:
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  15. Stuff some socks in it to make it look bigger? Asking for a friend
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  16. Thank goodness I used anorexic cable - with all the extra wires in the loom it took 2 hours to force it through the tube under the bus! I won in the end.
  17. Let's get this little beaut in the bus today so I can start connecting a few of those millions of wires :)
    Iain McAvoy, Dubs, snotty and 2 others like this.
  18. That looks amazing
    Mark Darby likes this.
  19. Thank you. Good old Rustoleum :)

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