And now the Loom!

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Mark Darby, Nov 15, 2019.

  1. This is great. One question from an inexperienced fiddler, could you clarify the three components marked LED below the horn, key and alternator.
    Apologies if already covered. Ta
    Mark Darby likes this.
  2. @Mark Darby : mark what if i want to use the original fuse box can i combine your 2 fuse boxes into my original , if that makes sense
    Mark Darby likes this.
  3. Yes they are to be added later to the leisure circuit along with the courtesy light switches. This bit is quite a long way off as I want to do a ply headliner at the same time.
    Davipon likes this.
  4. Sure. A lot of fuses are shared in the old fuse layout I think. When you decide which ones you double up, just make sure the fuse can cope with the total load, more importantly make sure the wire thickness for each circuit is thick enough for the load and that the fuse rating is lower than the wire rating to prevent your wires melting before a fuse blows when there's a problem.
    nicktuft and arryhancock like this.
  5. My assistant auto-electrician helping with a bit of planning:
    nicktuft, Dubs, Zoedanbus and 3 others like this.
  6. Ah, the old Soldering Cat. Essential bit of kit.
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  7. Dubs

    Dubs Sponsor

    Did he say you had done a purrfect job?
    Suss and Mark Darby like this.
  8. Coat!
  9. I just told her that you called her a he.
  10. Hi @Mark Darby just going through your wiring diagram and notice that on your diagram both brake switches have 3 terminals whilst mine have 2 so would you know which wires I need to use, also I need to order some cable but the site I was looking at shows the wire size as a gauge so what is 1mm in gauge size? Thanks for any help.
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  12. 1mm is 14s. 1.5mm is 28s from memory & the rest I can’t remember. Always order in metric now & use thinwall :thumbsup:
    arryhancock likes this.
  13. Don’t use thinwall ;). Looks odd in a 70s Bay.
    matty and 77 Westy like this.
  14. Good point snotts :thumbsup:
    snotty likes this.
  15. 'Tis true. Thick old-school stuff looks much more original IMHO.
  16. I'm away on holiday at the mo but from memory just lose the wires to the brake warning light which I guess you don't have.
    Yes I'm a fan of thinwall but then I'm not a purist. Thinwall has a higher amperage rating than std for the same wire thickness and is thinner so the loom isn't so fat. I'm running more wires than standard to the back and a couple of spares too, so using thinner cable means I can still fit the loom through the 1 inch metal tube under the chassis.
    paradox and arryhancock like this.
  17. You and your new-fangled thin-wall :rolleyes: It'll never catch on.
    Valveandy, Mark Darby and JamesLey like this.
  18. Well the loom board is ready and I've made a start. I thought I'd post my updated diagram as I've made a few changes.
    The front side light wires were connected to the headlight earth - now corrected.
    The feeds to the headlamp switch and relay now come from a dedicated 20amp fuse.
    The red/black 4mm wire from ignition to starter now goes via a 30amp fuse (I'm yet to add hotstart relay circuit).
    I had to double up the horn relay feed with the hazards but this shouldn't be an issue.
    I've added a little 4-way fuse box at the rear for the split charge circuit as I don't like inline fuses. Can anyone confirm if my split charge circuit will work as I have it now? I'm concerned with where I have the 30amp fuse in the leisure fuse box - would it be better to use a spare slot in the mini fuse box - i.e. take the wire from 87 on the split charge relay to a 30amp fuse in the 4-way and then on to the +ve on the leisure battery?

    Apart from that the diagram is pretty much there now and an improvement on the last version.

    Attached Files:

  19. And with the Hot Start Relay added....

    Attached Files:

  20. Oh and with remote starter switch connected when needed via two 3-way connectors.

    Attached Files:

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