Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Mark Darby, Nov 15, 2019.
Nice one I know where I’ll be ordering mine from now
I've pinched a little diagram for how to wire up my spotlights but I'm not sure where to take the switched live feed from. I only want the spot lights to work when I have main beam on. They will have a separate dash mounted illuminated switch. If I had them connected to the main beam output (56a) of the headlamp relay, that would mean 2 main beams and 2 spotlights all on the same circuit. depending on which bulbs I fit, that could be anything from 240 watts total to 400 watts going through the original relay wouldn't it? Please could anyone advise the best way to do this?
Not really sure why you need a separate switch. Take the supply for the lights from the top of a suitable existing fuse eg the “accessory” one, and switch the relay coil from one of the existing main beam fuses in the fuse box. That way, they come on when you switch to high beam, like a modern car.
Got it - cheers Snotty.
So if I take a feed from a main beam fuse via a 10amp rated Hella illuminated switch to 85, 86 to earth, a feed from a dedicated 20amp fuse to 30, 87 is the feed to the lights, does that sound right?
I just want a switch so I have the option of them coming on or not with main beam.
I think this is pretty much what I did with our Hella spots. The relay should even plug into the bottom of the original fuse box which is neat.
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I’ll try and find a diagram of how I did mine. Think you’ll find the switch is redundant: you’ll never use it.
Don’t generally need a switch for spots only for fogs. Wire them to a relay which is main beam triggered as mentioned
Right, here's my fag-packet wiring documentation.
Supply for spots (and fogs, if I wanted them) is taken from top of F7 (late Bay), which now has a 16A fuse in. Could also tap in directly to the bottom main feed of the fuse box, through a separate fuse (the relays with a built in blade fuse are good). I've run out of space in the fuse box, so my relays are screwed under the dash to the door frame. Spot relay is triggered by the top of F5, which goes live when main beam is on.
I reckon the switch is redundant. If you do fit one, doesn't have to be too highly rated, as it's only taking the relay coil current, which is a few tens of milliamps. Worth wiring the spots through a waterproof SuperSeal connector tucked under the bumper, so you can disconnect them if you take the bumper off.
If you're using F7 (the spare/accessory fuse), you may have to link it to the main +12 supply, as from the factory it may not be connected.
I may have to draw up the whole thing properly at some time
OK I think I'm about there with the diagram. There are always a few tweaks to do. Time to do a shopping list.
- toilet rolls
- new ignition switch
- wiper delay relay
- custard creams
Your spot light relay doesn’t seem to be connected to anything.... magic
The earlier diagram was a work in progress. I haven't posted the finished one. If anyone would like a copy, happy to pm it - I think it works!
Is anyone with a bit more experience than me willing to check over my wiring diagram for errors? I've got a high quality pdf I could send over. Happy to make it available to anyone that wants it once it's been "verified"
Il be happy to give it a shot Mark. I'm no Leccy wizard, but have rewired a few in my time... and I have several buses in with the dashes out, so can cross reference.
What’s that burning smell ?
Don't worry, that's just my turnips boiling.
Couldn't load the pdf in a pm, so will put it here. I'm happy for anyone to make use of it if they can but please note i can't take responsibility for it if it doesn't work!
Hers's my wiring diagram effort. If anybody spots any howlers or tweaks, please shout - much appreciated.
Edit: go to the diagram near the end of this thread as the final one has been tweaked.
Looks super duper. Did you use Illustrator?
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