Alternator change

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by ginger ninja, Jul 9, 2017.

  1. ginger ninja

    ginger ninja Supporter

    Hello

    I'm swapping my alternator on a stock (ish) 1600 twin port. I've looked on YouTube and it looked fairly easy. But in the butler book it talks about raising the fan housing and a few other pain in the butt jobs.

    Does anyone know whether I just do the following:
    Disconnect battery and leads to alt.
    Remove top pulley and alt belt
    Undo alt strap and four screws to fan housing.
    Undo big 36 mm nut and washer
    Slid out alt and change.
    Reverse procedure to put back.

    Or is it more complicated than that?
    I'm in ealing if anyone is at a lose end tomorrow!
    All the best and thanks in advance.

    Paul.
     
  2. Dubs

    Dubs Sponsor supporter extraordinaire

    You have to lift the fanhousing so the back plate will clear the inlet manifold. I have heard of folk removing the studs in the case that the alt stands bolt to, so the stand and inlet manifold can be removed, but it sounds like a pita to be honest. I would just drop the engine, or lower a couple of inches, to allow lifting the fan housing.
     
  3. It is possible to do it by undoing everything you have stated . And undoing the accelerator cable and unclipping any spark plug leads that are attached to the fan housing, remove or unplug coil connections. And then undo the 10mm? Bolt on either side of the fan housing by the spark plugs and any connections you may have on the rear of the housing and give the housing a wiggle and a shove upwards. Might of missed something carnt remember but you get the idea it's total faff but is do able if you don't mind chronic back pain lol but gives you just enough clearance to pull everything out then as you said it's a reverse putting it back in . Less pain full is dropping engine down as for time wise there's not a lot in it.

    Sent from my SM-J500FN using Tapatalk
     
  4. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    Its just doable but you must disconnect the thermostat too, and getting the 36mm nut undone round the back may be impossible - I managed to shear the bit of washer a PO had used as a woodruff key on the fan and then had a lot of struggle.
    And the carburettor and inlet mainfold has to come off when the fan gets stuck on like that.
    Also the alternator stand has to be fought out of the way...



    The quick and easy way is to drop the engine and do it with lots of room to work and get a socket on that 36mm nut and have a hand in front of the fan housing. And to be able to easily get at the bolts securing the alternator to the front side of the alternator backing plate..
    And you do not run the risk of levering up on the oil cooler and cracking it.

    Once you have done this once, then consider the short cut routes as you will understand which bits are holding down the fan housing and getting in the way when you have to provide force to move things. Like the weight of the alternator means you dont notice the thermostat wire holding back until it pings off the loop under the fanhousing meaning its engine drop time anyway (or hours of fiddling)
     
    Dubs likes this.
  5. I did my one with the engine in situ, like others have said it is a pain to get the fan housing out of the way and possibly is easier to just drop the engine and do a couple other jobs while you're in there. I went for the in situ option purely because I did it on a gravel driveway so that would have made dropping the engine a pain to pull out on the trolley jack, if I had a smooth floor then I'd defo drop the engine if I had to do it again.

    Another top tip I was told is if you remove the alternator stand then replace the studs/nuts that secure it down with bolts instead, that way it can just slide out rather than needing to lift the next time.

    Good luck with whatever way you decide to do it :thumbsup:
     
    snotty likes this.
  6. Like @ScottandSusan i have done it insitu some years ago as I wasn't in a place to drop the engine, Barnstaple Hospital Car Park as it happens, rather than a gravel drive!

    It wasn't that bad, had to remove carb, inlet manifold and then as everyone says the two small bolts holding the fan housing each side and it did need lifting a bit. I took the whole alt and fan out in one go and took it to local garage for windy gun to undo the big fan bolt.

    Refit was easy!

    Now I would drop the engine!
     
  7. ginger ninja

    ginger ninja Supporter

    Thanks everyone. Sounds like a real pain. Got a grumbling bearing in the alternator that sounds like it might have to grumble some more! I can't understand why the part 1 and part 2 YouTube clips from Richpin auto repairs made it look so easy! It's like there are no manifolds there!
    Have a look if you're bored watching crap telly!


    P.
     
  8. Whats wrong with yours? Beyond repair in situ?
    After looking into changing my one i replaced regulator and brush pack and was good to go again.

    Sent from my SM-J320FN using Tapatalk
     
  9. Twin carbs so no inlet manifold across the engine
     
    snotty likes this.
  10. ^this. It's the stock manifold that gets in the way. With twin carbs you haven't got one.
     
  11. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    You can do the rear alternator bearing in situ.
    Disconnect battery
    Remove pulley and woodruff key.
    Undo screws holding alternator plate on
    Put pulley nut back on the alternator shaft unless you want to see what firing spacer and bearing at a dummy looks like instead of watching Taofledermaus on youtube do it with a gun.
    Place puller behind bearing and tension.
    BANG!
    Undo nut and remove bearing and spacer.
    Tap new bearing and spacer back on shaft.
    Reassemble with washers and stuff.
    Put alternator face plate back on, replace pulley.
    Its often the rear bearing that is most grumbling.

    The little puller in the eBay kit does the alternator and the big one pulls steering wheels
     
  12. ginger ninja

    ginger ninja Supporter

    Well what a day I've had!
    Thanks to everyone who has contributed b.t.w.
    Me and a mate got the old alternator out. It was fiddly but two heads are normally better than one. Off came the carb, and with the benefit of a top engine inspection hatch. The big old bolt at the back of the fan housing was easy. Didn't need to raise the housing.
    The new alternator was easy ish to put back. Those 4x 10 mm fan housing bolts are well fiddly as was the rear bolt on the carb!
    Now here's where it went horribly. Wired it all up correctly and it went pop! The new one was a returned alternator from vw heritage sold as a 'no fault found' return. So now I'm back to square one. But an important lesson was learned.

    Maybe I'll just swap the bearings over.

    Thanks again everyone.

    P.
     
    jivedubbin likes this.
  13. bluerustybucket

    bluerustybucket Supporter

    Is your original alternator a bosch one ? If so find someone to recon it

    Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
     
  14. ginger ninja

    ginger ninja Supporter

    So sorry brb! Only just seen your addition to my post. It's still in my shed but I'll go have a look.
    Thanks for your advice.

    Paul
     

Share This Page