Advice please---changing heater trunking.

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Meltman, Jan 31, 2020.

  1. One of the jobs I plan to do this year is to change the heater trunking on my '73 westy. A PO removed the rear Y piece and the centre tube and replaced with some sort of steel flexible industrial tubing. This goes from the heat exchangers to the bottom of the front totem pole with a 90 degree joint just before going down the centre of the bus. I want to get back to standard if possible. Should I get new (repo?) or are original bits arround? I'm led to believe fitting a standard Y piece is a swine to do but I've seen somewhere it can be split up tp make smaller and easier. All advice/comments gratefull recieved. I thank you.
  2. Sounds like it's already as it should be but using non standard parts .if it works leave as is . However some do branch off to enter in different areas of the van . Again unless you need the complexity , leave as is
    Meltman likes this.
  3. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Moderator

    Even splitting the Y piece is a pig of a job tbh. If it was me I would use ali flexible piping from heat xchanger to centre pipe.

    Come to think of it that’s exactly what I did after faffing with the Y piece for days :(
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2020
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  4. ^this. If it works, I'd leave it.
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  5. If it uses modern, easily sourced new parts its going to be easier to fix. I would make sure its well insulated and leave it.
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  6. Getting the y piece in is a right PITA. I struggled and there was no floor in place getting in my way!

    flexible hose is probably the best way to go so just leave it and make a cake/ some cookies instead
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  7. I also need to sort this as well. I know the Y piece is a git without removing floor so have pretty much decided this is not the route to go down, but researched a few options and never found a good example of people doing it with flexible hoses. Can whoever has done this / has this setup now post a few pics if they have them or explain what they used so I can see if this is something I could sort out.

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  8. Even with no engine and gearbox the Y piece is difficult, I repaired mine and cut in 3 to aid refitting then coated all joints in GRP tape and finished with aluminium central heating tape. I also found smooth bore stainless steel flue pipe good for the main run with cardboard concertina tube over. Have a look at my Lottie resto thread.
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  9. Haven't got any pictures to hand but it's easy to do with silicone hose. I have replaced all of my heating pipe except for the main central 90mm steel pipe with silicone hose. It deforms easily to get over the front beam and rear torsion tube. Connects directly to HX at the back and totem at the front. Did away with the diverter as I've ducted my propex into the walkthrough vent.
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  10. And just to echo others, don't bother changing it if what you have at present works.
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  11. Many thanks for your help and advice.I've managed to have a look under Lenny this morning but didnt get pictures. I have 'steel' flexable tube 55mm OD from the front totem pole to just beyond the rear cross member and is supported with cable ties. It looks quite heavy duty tube , may be industrial/exhaust type. There is then a T piece and 2 pieces of similar tube to the heat exchangers. The T is arranged with one leg as straight through and the other leg as a 90 degree side shoot! The pipes go below the rear torsion tube and then up to the HX. I dont have a diverter to the middle of the van. The tubing is similar to what can be seen coming out of the side of some old American cars (Cord, Deusemberg etc) but not as big and not chromed! It looks like a snake under the van---but nobody normally sees it.
    I think my first aim is to make sure the HX are working corectly, fit new cables, and check that there is some heat getting through. If that works out then I'll lag all the pipes and maybe fit an inline blower near the front. My concern is the dia of the central tube and does it allow enough air flow----I could possible change it for larger and leave the flexi stuff at the back. From what you have said I am not going to attempt fitting an original Y piece, I'd sooner make or eat cake.
  12. It can be done but is a bit of a faff.
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  13. If you're lucky, the tubing may be stainless :thumbsup: Wouldn't worry about the diverter under the cab floor, as the centre floor vent doesn't seem to do much even when it's working. I wouldn't go overboard on making the centre tube larger.
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  14. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Moderator

    Insulation is the key :thumbsup:
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  15. I thought the bird was the word?
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  16. Top T2 Factoid:
    The Y piece was the key component to the T2’s construction, with the chassis being built around it, and as such has the part number zero: 211 703 000

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  17. That's Y-Fronts you're thinking of :rolleyes:
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  18. On my bay the whole heater tubing system was missing between the HX and the front beam. I installed a schofields heater tube, and wedged in an Eberspatcher plastic y piece into the main tube, then silicon flexi pipes connect back to the HX. The main problem I have is the thin silicon spiral wire pipes running between the Y and the HX keeps unravelling the wire reinforcement, I also bought 60mm I d pipe and it’s tight, so I need 62mm next time. Any suggestions for better quality silicon flex pipes, gratefully received.
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  19. Poptop2

    Poptop2 Moderator

    Use the ali air pipe that you use in the engine bay it’s the right diameter and pretty hard wearing. When it’s insulated it doesn’t chafe either
  20. Thanks for the advice guys. I'm leaving it as it is cables and HX levers and going to insulate the trunking and then see what heat I get through. A bit of shopping at Dubfreeze on Sunday.
    snotty likes this.

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