I think I’m missing the spring and cup from the crossbar. Has anyone got a pic or link to what they look like? I took the carbs off in January and I can’t remember what I have done with them . Or remember the safe place I put them !
The spring is p/n 021129959 https://www.bus-ok.de/Spring-for-Ac...-2000cc-engines-19721983-OEM-partnr-021129959 And the cup is p/n 021129957 https://www.bus-ok.de/Type2-bay-and-Type25-Type4-engine-Crossbar-ball-Socket-OEM-nr-021-129-957 Other suppliers are available, Google the part numbers.
@Geraint Thomas if you’re quick @Mark Darby might be able to add them to the group buy from Bus-ok.de
I have had the bus 5 years and it was running fine until last year . Although it did struggle up hills etc .!I had someone look at it and he said the carbs need replacing . I just got them refurbished. The previous owner had just been to France and back from Pembrokeshire , so when I first drove it I assumed it was running well . I don’t have any previous experience to know if it was running well or not
I’ll guess it’s never run as well as it should and it’s possible that one side of the engine has been working harder than the other. For a few quid it’s worth fitting both the spring and the cup, without the spring the cross bar can move sideways and jam preventing the throttle from closing - that might be happening with yours. Without the cup the cross bar can move up and down instead of opening the carb making it virtually impossible to balance them.
I agree its a little confusing doing timing with revs so high. Until recently i used to think the way was with engine at idle speed say 1100rpm then set timing at 7.5 degree btdc. Then on here i read it explained that your engine is mainly in use running at around 3000rpm .so timing it at that speed is more akin to when the engine is being used . Makes sense once you get your head around it. That's my interpretation of the advice . I've not had need to use it yet but next time I will give it a go ..
If your electronic ignition allows it, set the initial timing statically with a light bulb. Doing it a timing gun is just checking the mech advance is working and tops out a reasonable RPM.
Yes, but your reasoning is not quite correct. 3000 revs is often mentioned not because that’s the revs where you use the engine most but because that’s where the distributor has usually finished advancing. Say you set the timing at 30deg at 2000 revs because that’s where you use the engine most it will have too much advance when at 3000 revs when the distributor has stopped advancing. You need to set the timing at maximum advance, it could be 3000 revs or more or less depending on the distributor, then no matter how fast or slow you drive the engine won’t have too much advance. Incidentally, at 1100 revs the centrifugal advance is likely to have already started.
