A restoration for Iris

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by JamesLey, Jul 6, 2015.

  1. @davidoft would an earlybay seat base fit with a latebay back? I have had the seat reupholstered so it would be great if they were interchangeable.
     
  2. davidoft

    davidoft Sponsor

    No completely different seats
     
  3. If you have a drivers earlybay seat how much would you be asking for it?
     
  4. James , great tutorial and work, iv got the same roll over tilt as you and about to load it onto the bus, when you put the rear support into the engine hangers , is there a bolt that goes through to hold it in place? as the instructions that come with it are informative.
    Cheers john
     
  5. Hi mate. It’s the bolt that you would have taken out when you removed the engine, I don’t think the kit comes with one. It’s an m10 I believe (maybe m8?).


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  6. Thanks for the info sorted now
     
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  7. I bought a westy style seat belt mount (aka the @davidoft mount) for the rear a while back to make fitting a a 3 point belt a bit nicer. As ours is a converted panel van it has none of the factory bus mounting points so I had to make one (big thank you to @nobbly for sending me details of his build on this one). I used 25x50mm box section and a standard mounting bracket cut down to size:
    [​IMG]

    I cut the box section at either end to sneak it behind the framework in the van:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    All tacked together:
    [​IMG]

    All welded up and welds dressed. The smaller piece is for the lower mounting point:
    [​IMG]

    All trail fitted to the van, it was then plug welded to the side of the van via holes drilled in the van side, and seam welded at both ends:
    [​IMG]

    Lower mounting point welded in and both pieces etch primed:
    [​IMG]

    That should do nicely. I’ve already done the mounting points for a lap belt the other side, so we can now safely transport 2 in the back of the van!
    [​IMG]

    As a small home project I’ve been sorting out the multitude of dodgy repairs and ugly bits on the wiring loom. Not many pictures of this as it’s not very exciting, but this was the type of rubbish I found. Barely crimped on insulated terminal, with scotch lock and a bare blobby solder.
    [​IMG]

    Replaced with non-insulated terminals like the original, and heatshrunk soldered joints:
    [​IMG]

    I had about 4 bits like the above to repair, plus a few bits that needed fresh heatshrink, the rest really wasn’t too bad.
     
  8. Well aware that I have the entire van to shape and prime, and pretty much no experience of applying filler I decided to have a go on the rear hatch to get a feel for it. I’m epoxying all of the outer panels, so started by taking the hatch back to bare metal (you can see the repair I had to put in along the bottom edge):
    [​IMG]

    And the result of a few nights trying to get the panel flat (this is going to take me a while to get the hang of, but I’ve got to start somewhere right?!).
    [​IMG]

    So far it’s not coming particularly natural to me trying to feel the highs and lows on the panel, and then levelling it out. Even applying the filler isn’t easy as I can’t seem to spread it particularly evenly and keep running tracks through it.

    I decided to epoxy it anyway to give me a better idea of the panel shape, and how the filler translates into primer.

    As I had the gun out I also bare metalled the engine lid which is a brand new panel so needed no filler:
    [​IMG]

    Engine lid in epoxy:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    And rear hatch:
    [​IMG]

    It doesn’t look too bad from this angle and distance, but it’s far from straight when viewed side on:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    I can apply filler over epoxy so I’ll keep going on the filler to try and flatten it out more. Practice makes perfect!
     
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  9. I’m dreading the filling stage. I suppose you can never have too much practice, at least if it goes wrong you can just sand it off and start again


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  10. Yes you can fill over primer just scuff it good but you will find it easier and quicker if you skim the whole panel in fillet then long block it down .:thumbsup:
     
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  11. Yeah I started by filling the lows then increased the area I filled on subsequent skims. Think I just need to go further with it. My goofball hands struggle to even spread at the mo!


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  12. It' harder to fill lows then again again just skim the compleat panel wot filler you don' need you will rub off anyway and you will have a better base for your primer
     
    JamesLey likes this.
  13. Will give it a go tonight. Cheers.


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  14. Should look like this hqdefault.jpg
     
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  15. I’ve been watching loadsa YouTube bits on it. The Eastwood vids are good. That image looks familiar too!


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  16. Yes it of shut your face garage
     
  17.  
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  18. My super power is stubbornness. I’ll keep going until I can do it!


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  19. You will do it:thumbsup: its easy your get it... have confidence in you ;)
     
    JamesLey likes this.
  20. Second attempt at filler on the rear hatch. This approach makes much more sense, applying filler to the entire panel and then blocking it flat (I think attempting to apply filler to low spots can only really work on isolated repairs easily?)
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG] (does anyone else see a camp alien face on the panel?)
    Presumably I now need to reskim the whole panel again as everything is low compared to those two high spots? I can see some low spots too which I need to block down to. Starting to make a bit more sense now!


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