Yeap that sounds about right. I had to repair one of the outer legs anyway so just cut out the rot and made the repair to fit the new position. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ours looked like it had been at the bottom of the sea so I had to remove it completely and repair the top track first. Then yes I trimmed it down and attached the new middle sill to the bottom of the repaired track. It was a horridjob tbh, but the door seems to fit and shut well now. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
If you can avoid removing the whole thing though I'd recommend that. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Onto the Rear inner arch and tub sections. The N/S isn’t that bad with most of the lower lip still intact which makes a welcome change. I started by getting the rear part of the tub repaired, using a Schofield’s panel and a small infill piece as the rust had extended past the height of the panel: The rear of the lip had rusted out, by the looks of it from water getting through the rear bung hole which was missing its bung. Rust cut out: Outer arch trial fitted and then a snug fitting repair for the inner made from a second outer panel: Repair welded in and welds dressed from this side. I just need to dress the other side and trim the lip down a little. Max also treated the cubby beneath the driver’s seat with some Deox Gel (amazing stuff for removing rust) and I coated it in some Hydrate 80 to seal the metal:
It's pretty cool stuff. Clean up the metal the best you can then apply a film of the gel to the area. Leave for a while (I left overnight with cling film on it to stop it drying out) then scrub and wash and it's back to fresh metal. Non toxic too Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I’ve repaired the rear tub as much as I need before I fit the outer so gave it a coat of epoxy mastic. (the final fiddly bits will get welded in when the outer is on). I also gave the sliding door sections a coat as well as the cab floor. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Sliding door outer tacked in place and trial fitted. Happy with the door gaps so just need to weld it up! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Hi James, I have so say you are creating some exceptionally good straight lines considering your starting point. Have you managed to fold the lower lip of the front panel over the flange below? I found access for this difficult but eventually used cross pein hammer follower by adjustable (waterpump?) pliers and finally mole grips then plug welded through the top and seam sealed below after all the grinding. As ever looking forward to your next post - Martin
Cheers martin, I'm pretty happy with where the bus is at now, although I suspect if I were to do it again there are loads of bits I'd do differently. I've not yet knocked the bottom edge over, I've done the sides to get the door on though. I bought a nice sealey panel beating set (although I've lost my favourite dolly somewhere in the workshop!) so will hopefully be able to get the bottom edge folded over shortly.
Hi James, yet another great reason to do a restro ......an absolutely valid excuse to buy lots of lovely tools! and of course if you cannot find a lost tool we all know the best way to find it is to........buy another one and by magic the original will turn up!!
Sliding door repair all welded in. Happy with the gaps and panel is relatively straight! Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Keeping up the momentum on the welding and got the N/S outer rear arch welded in and pretty much all dressed. Managed to get a neater finish than I did on the sliding door. Into the engine bay next to sort the rear corner, battery tray and engine skirt.
