A mini roller rustoleum redecoration

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by sANDYbAY, Jan 17, 2016.

  1. Any further progress Bob ?
     
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  2. sANDYbAY

    sANDYbAY On benefits-won't sponsor!

    Yes mate, I very very carefully sanded straight through the three coats I'd put on so :( on went coat no 4 and then I just stuck all the stuff back on the front so's I could use it.
    It does look nice and shiny though and in a couple of weeks I'll have another go and sanding it flat and polishing.
     
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  3. why not just do rest of van let paint cure for a few weeks then use 1500 then 2000 then mop
     
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  4. Your doing right:thumbsup:

    Dont listen to people like me about how it should be done or how it should look
    All that matters is that is it keeps the weather off whilst your using it

    I hate mine because its become worth somthing nowadys
    If it was any other old van........................

    Tbh id be glad to be rid of it for somthing i could use living up ere
     
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  5. Its not like 2k owen

    It needs compassion to work with and speed only ruins it
     
  6. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Rollering causes orange peel. (I'm just geussing :D ) I think you might get a better result rollering it on then laying it off with a brush.
     
  7. Dont listen to people like me about how it should be done or how it should look
    All that matters is that is it keeps the weather off whilst your using it

    we where asked for advise , i gave a reply , might not be right but was an answer , lol to a question , all advise is welcome to me u and everyone else , ;):burp:
     
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  8. sANDYbAY

    sANDYbAY On benefits-won't sponsor!

    That's the plan shielsy, I've got a few blemishes on the sliding door and a couple of the seams could do with raking out and redoing. Apart from that it's all good so I'll carry on working on the front panel until I can get a satisfactory finish and then I can do the rest of the van panel by panel whenever I have a bit of spare time. The main benefit of doing it this way is that the van never actually needs to be off the road for more than an hour or two,
     
  9. sANDYbAY

    sANDYbAY On benefits-won't sponsor!

    Thanks........I think:)
     
  10. sANDYbAY

    sANDYbAY On benefits-won't sponsor!

    The roller caused lots of orange peel and on tight curves it generally laid far too much paint on. I used a 2" brush to lay off this coat and now all I have is a few faint brush marks which really only show up in sunshine.
     
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  11. This is what I did on my floor and deck which is obviously corrugated and a right pain in the ring to paint, but I used a foam brush.
    @sANDYbAY bob I feel your pain with the flatting, with my ham fists I burnt through virtually every layer of paint I put down :)
     
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  12. theBusmonkey

    theBusmonkey Sponsor

    AKA tipping
     
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  13. sANDYbAY

    sANDYbAY On benefits-won't sponsor!

    Armed with that knowledge I've discovered a wealth of YouTube videos on the subject. :thumbsup:

    Excellent, I can spend the next 6 months watching YouTube and if Jan asks I can say I'm researching about how to fix our Campervan. :cool:
     
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  14. when you going to do them seams, I have some that need a little raking out and treating and was hoping to watch you do yours first ... I've got some clout matched rustoleum so half way there already!
     
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  15. sANDYbAY

    sANDYbAY On benefits-won't sponsor!

    You're more than welcome to pop round for a seam raking party, but bring cake and biscuits.
     
  16. What were you using to flat back, if you don't mind me asking? Alkyds (enamels) need months to harden enough to use compound, unless it's been baked, especially if it's been put on quite thick. Using 2000 grit W & D (wet) will also tend to pick the top layer and deposit it elsewhwere...mostly onto the paper
     
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2016
  17. sANDYbAY

    sANDYbAY On benefits-won't sponsor!

    A cork block and 320 grit to get rid of the tops of the ôrange peel and then 600 wet after that aiming for a completely matt surface. It worked fine on the big flat bits but around the headlights and other curves I either went straight through to primer or it got so thin you could see the primer through the paint.
     
  18. 320s sounds quite harsh to me, but then I've never tried to get a coach finish with rustoleum....I'd try soft scotchbrite (dry) to denib it, then some fairly soft compound (farecla G7) on a wet stockinette cloth....keep it wet....straight lines rather than circular...then polish with 'Finesse it' or G10....I've done bike frames, petrol tanks and body panels on motorbikes with enamel and this seems to work well.....big panels will be a different proposition, but if you're not in a massive rush, hand flatting/polishing (rather than machine polishing) will be safer
     
  19. back in the day, when my grandad retired as a lorry driver for the Steelworks, the boss aked him to stay on and be his chauffeur...the perk was a free Daimler! but he had to maintain it....he painted it by hand with a 'mop'....basically a long flat wide bunch of super soft bristles, folded over then clamped at the 'handle end'.....my dad as a kid watched him do it...dip the mop into the paint tin, lay it on with one smooth action, overlapping each line...glass finish...no marks, runs...coat of wax....I've tried to source one of these mops on various occassions to no avail...I reckon it would be great for Rustoleum....
     
  20. Out of interest how long did the coats take to dry?
     

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