'76 Viking - Hans

Discussion in 'Restorations' started by Ca700290, Sep 17, 2015.

  1. So everything was prepped Monday evening. 2.5 litres of oil in. Fuel in. Battery charged and connected. Turn the key and nothing. :( Could hear a click. Lights were working. Lights dipping once key was fully turned. So after reading a number of threads on TLB a couple of usual links came up on starter motor issues.

    http://type2.com/bartnik/starter.htm
    http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=581254

    So late last night armed with a screwdriver I connected both the starter terminals, with sparks flying, the starter whizzed. Then disconnecting the ignition line to the solenoid, via the spade terminal, I connected via the screwdriver the battery to the starter. More sparks but the starter turned. Went back to the ignition and turned the key. Jesus wept it started :). Sticky solenoid! Glad to have gone through that process to be honest. It was 9pm and I got kids around so I only turned it over a couple of times before turning it off and running in the house with a kids Christmas morning face screaming at the wife "It bloody works" :). Happy days.

    So tomorrow or Saturday I've got some engine bay things to finish - engine foam seal, air hose, supporting strap. Re-crimping some of the wires.

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    I've ordered a new starter. I don't want any starting issues. Going to also order and install the start relay so that we don't have any hot start issues. Then refurb the existing one as a spare.

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    Last edited: Nov 20, 2015
    rob.e and paradox like this.
  2. Coor blimey governa....this stuff tests your patience :)

    So she fired up but wouldn't idle. She didn't sound too healthy trying to start up neither; couple of squeals (what I think I worked out to be some kind of pressure through the carb/manifold gasket...not really sure of that), couple of back fires and maybe a rough patch turning it over. Fuel was being spat through the carb gasket. And I believe it was also making its way though the exhaust.

    Once she did start on a couple of occasions it ran beautifully, sounded great but wouldn't idle, so had to keep on the throttle.

    After multiple tries and investigations I think I have a definite air leak problem at the carb gasket.

    I'm also not convinced my dizzy is pucker neither. I was seeing sparks on the dizzy shaft/rotor arm and not at the points, which I reset.

    So what has this meant??

    This week I'll looking to resit the carb again. I forgot washers so I'll add those. I really hope its not at the twin ports or the manifold boots. As that may mean dropping the engine again.

    I have also decided to forego the points and change to Pertronix ignition. That's arriving tomorrow. The electronic ignition will let me rule out that side of the starting. The leads needed changing anyway and I'm looking for a reliable start.
     
  3. I've been faffing with mine for a while to try to sort out air leaks and poor idle. One thing I can say: it's perfectly possible to change manifold boots and the gaskets at the twin port heads without dropping the engine or moving the alternator. Bit of a fiddle, but I did it quite easily.
    I still haven't sorted the leak completely, and I did notice that the bit of the manifold had carb sits on on mine is not very flat. Anyone else had this?
     
    Ca700290 likes this.
  4. Hi there when doing your carb check that its mounting flange is not distorted, when I did mine it looked like a banana! Half an hour with some 180 wet and dry and a granite tile as a surface plate soon had it sorted, it had been helicoiled as well so it looked like someone had tried to tighten it like a wheel nut, stripped the threads and had a naff repair done.
    cheers
    Andy
     
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  5. Flakey

    Flakey Supporter

    I'd have a strobe connected ready and time it properly as soon as its started and run for a few minutes!
     
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  6. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Me too, why mess about?
     
  7. Fair point on the timing. I guess I'm looking to start from a clean sheet rather than chase/learn issues with points, plugs, leads and condenser. I had to work out how to use the timing gun :D

    So the petronix is installed. After some static timing the engine purred! :)

    I dont know if the choke is working correctly yet as I had to keep the throttle on to stop it stalling. Once it warmed up it was fine. I'll make that my next thing to look at.

    So jumping the gun, without searching the forum, I installed the engine bay foam....so I installed it from the rear of the van around to the firewall :(. Mistake. (Instead of the proper way of installing it). One of the ends ended up getting sucked into the fan and twisting. No major damage was done however I believe it has done something to the alternator. The battery light no longer goes out once the engine is running. So I don't know if this is the alternator bushing, voltage regulator or its fried.

     
  8. Flakey

    Flakey Supporter

    Oops, you could post that in the rookie mistakes thread :confused:
    Presume you mean you've dynamically timed it now?
    Sometimes just a case of turning the cover on the auto chokes so they operate the butterfly on and off correctly.
    Doubt the foam would have caused the alt to fry!
     
    Ca700290 likes this.
  9. So on to the starter motor tonight. Was only able to remove the old one. Bushing was a be-ach to get to out.
    Had to use the tap method
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    The bushing looked absolutely shot!!
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    New stuff in tomorrow.
     
    Dicky likes this.
  10. Did you take any pics of the seatbelt mount plates welded in? ;)
     
  11. I did. Now before PC brigade, HSE, QSE, PPE advisers, fire marshals and nominated first aid responders start piping up!!...I made a decision just to tak them...poorly. Speaking to a guy, oh yeah "a guy"...typical. He had informed me that his Landy has the exact same plates but are not welded in. They are held by the bolts only. Yes I could have put a fabricated brace across the whole back, which would be safer but I'm happy with the set up at the moment. I've got Davidoft's bracket, which I will spend a little more time engineering.

    Agreed that this hasn't added any additional safety to the mounting point, but they are in. I've put two on one side (below) and one on the other. I'm only looking for 2 seat belts (3 point) in the back, to one side (side and middle).

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    IMAG2528.jpg IMAG2529.jpg

    And I'll tell me kids this is alot safer than when I was a child :) ....with my mum doing a ton in the Volvo whilst I slept without a seat beat in the back. Or when she was riding around town with my head out the sun roof. Happy days.
     
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2015
    Bazman likes this.
  12. I think it will take more than Davidoff's bracket to make this safe! I am fabricating a bracket for the same purpose, but it will also be bolted to the panel below the petrol tank, below which another bracket is welded to the chassis. I'm sure someone else can provide photos.
    http://www.thesamba.com/vw//forum/album_page.php?pic_id=267453&sid=3516284c0d51f83bd7378d10af4d395b
     
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  13. Thought I best push out a post as I have been on the van most nights over these cold winter nignhts. Didnt realise that when you enjoy doing something how much you dont care about the cold, you only care about the gad damn rain!
    Although the van has an mot I'm keen on making sure it passes again this May. My summer target is to have moved the whole family to the beach for a cuppa tea and a bacon butty, even if its a tempoary-ish interior. If I can do that I'll be chuffed as nuts. With that in mind the next couple of months I'm concentrating on brake system replacement and roof/gutter repairs.

    I've krusted the top back shelve (very cool stuff), then put a coat of Bonda down.

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    I've completed my first lot of welding. First pin holes then rear offside wheel trub repair. After some advice from the guys at work I'm alot happier with the process. Yes I should have gone on a course or even practiced in the garage, but hey ho.
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    Last edited: Feb 24, 2016
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  14. I've removed the near side windows and am looking to attack the roof. I've got some roof strengther and gutter panels from Schofields. I'm going to sectionalise the repairs. More to come.

    IMAG3681.jpg IMAG3687.jpg IMAG3688.jpg IMAG3689.jpg IMAG3690.jpg
     
  15. Looking good. I'm looking forward to seeing how ye tackle the roof as I have to this area myselfo down the line. Plenty of pic's would be appreciated.
     
    Ca700290 likes this.
  16. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Considering the state of the roof, the rest of it looks pretty good? :thumbsup:
     
  17. Started on the roof. Drilled out the spot welds. Removed part of the gutter/roof skin. Then removed the outer face of the inner strengthener.

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  18. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    Have you thought of acquiring a whole sound roof? @Beaver fits 'em for fun - 1 a week I reckon.
     
    Beaver likes this.
  19. Haha,

    It takes a bit longer than a week the way we do it.

    I think the first one we did rusted differently. This one looks to have suffered from the pop top hinge points and spread from there. The other side probably isn't quite so bad.

    Ours was a tin top, but the worst of the rot was in the bottom of the 3 layers.

    We picked the old roof skin and gutters off first and the next layer looked OK, until I chopped a section out of that.

    [​IMG]

    Totally ruined inside that box section.

    We picked it all off the van carefully. Then very carefully picked the donor roof apart

    [​IMG]

    Cleaned it all up, rust treated and painted it all then popped it onto the van

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    It is an awful lot of work, but it shouldn't look like it's been done once it's all finished off.

    Started the next one last week........
     
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  20. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    In the olden days you'd have cut through the pillars and put the whole lot on. :) I nearly did that once but it was too "cut and shut". Best to get another van...
     
    Beaver likes this.

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