Stick with what you are happy with. Sae 30 oil was not good in my engine (smoked on startup....worn valve guide?) but nothing after using a multigrade 20/50. Recommend some injector cleaner in the tank.
So after all this, I reckon go back to basics and start again. Hence getting the right plugs in. Seems I need to get the right oil in too......... Morris sae30 was done at the garage, they said it was ok when i questioned it. I've not had any smoke on start up or when it's got hotter when i've been timing it etc. I do get alot of condensation dripping out the exhaust. Yeap, Izzy, just finished a full of tank petrol that had half bottle Redex Petrol System cleaner in it. Was going to put the other half bottle of redex in next time i fill up.
When I used Redex inj cleaner it definitely caused the engine to run hotter. I won't use it again, if I suspect the injectors need cleaning they will be removed and done properly! In saying that I do occasionally use a slug of Redex lead substitute. Don't know why really as it's not necessary but in hot Mediterranean summers the bus does run cooler with it. Could be fuel quality.... Anyway, if it's any consolation it has taken a few miles after Davidoft's rebuild for it all to settle down. The FI system is quite sensitive to getting all the ducks lined up so to speak. Timing, tick over, air (leaks) metering etc. The manifold boots need to be in good order as does all the hosing incl the S boot.
The 20/50 green stuff from halfords, tried a different blend but the oil light kept flickering at low revs on a long run.
Many thanks to you all. Busmonkey......... Yeap all 4 manifold boots replaced, they were the original vw ones. When sprayed with coldstart (i think, and not by me, it was at the garage) on tickover, the revs increased, so sucking in air. Sorry, as i said, this is all new to me and I'm trying to learn ......... Whats the S boot ??
It's this thing: It sits between the airflow meter (flat black box of mystery) and the throttle body (check that's fixed tightly as well). The boot often splits where it joins the throttle body. @pkrboo had a spare for sale recently IIRC & if not, @davidoft probably has the global supply stashed in various random out-houses and roof spaces in Hayling Towers.
Thanks Busmonkey, yeap I've seen that and wiggled it to see if rev's changed. I just didnt know it's name. Airflow meter.........scary, been googling about it, no way I'm touching the innards of that beast. I'll make sure the S boot is tight and inspect it. Many thanks for the tips and help, and humor
if you want leccy ignition then get pertronix, it really is fit and forget. i had mine in for 7 years, checked the timing twice and it never strayed. and i had loads of power. it shoudl fix your sluggish when hot problem
And SAE30 will be fine for now, next time it is due a change i would personally get: eurocarparts mineral 15w40 oil. my engine ran really well on it and didn't like 20w50 oil, made it feel a bit sluggish
Motorway journey today.....yes in the thunderstorms and hail No misfire now I'm back on points, but still sluggish when hot. Timing at 7.5 on tick over, with timing gun, when engine warm, before I left. Next week, new oil - W8cc plugs - and try setting it at 28-30 advance at 3500rpm. Borrowing a tachometer to try get it spot on. Thank you all for your help.
One of the things that is hard to get across is terminology How some people describe something as to how others would describe the same thing. If you are accelerating from standstill when it's only warm and it feels great, then you are accelerating from standstill and it's hot but then it feels sluggish is one scenario. But if you're driving around and everyone is doing thirtyish and you're keeping up fine then you get to the ring road and the motorways then you can't keep up, that's a very different thing because you just don't have the ponies of a modern car. I'd leave the oil in for a bit but change it next time to a multi flavour, I use the modern one from Halfords. If anything this oil would be sloppier when hot thus allowing the motor to spin more effectively and by the same thing it would be thicker when cold so theoretically it would run worse when cold so I think we can eliminate oil as the issue here. So can you describe this sluggish when hot just a little more as in comparisons would be great. If you can do silly ones that's even better. Like keeping up with a Sainsbury trolley at cold and shot down at the lights by Del Boy in his yellow mean machine when hot. Also try the dipstick test, as in when you think it's sluggish, pull over , and check your oil, does the dipstick weld itself to your fingers or is it reasonably just above warm ? Then we'll know a bit more wot we is yacking about Ozziedog,,,,,,,,,,,, I get a couple of gallons when it's Halfords specials weekends
Yes Ozziedog, It is difficult to describe, sorry. But my initial question was about the T25 plugs in it, and if there was a reason for them being fitted, not so much describing all the issues with the bus. I was also at the back of the queue when it comes to humor. I'm a more factual type.....boring , lol. Thanks for your reply and humor . He just lost his Umph, when it came to any kind of hill, and was getting too hot. I've had him 2 years, and I could just feel the difference, not just the lack of Ponies, as you said. (I had a beetle for 8 years as a daily drive, so it's a kind of vw insight/feeling, know what I mean?? ) Thought I'd start with fixing/checking the basics myself. I've had to give up and it's at the garage. £10 bet they wanna rip the injection system off,,but I'm at a loss what to do. I've researched for weeks, got my self all confused, but learnt alot too. I found and fixed some problems. Worst confusion, peeps saying vac hoses off, yet OldVolksHome, samba, haynes book, sticker on boot lid all say vac hose on (peeps saying even the Bently manual is wrong) and I'm not sure whats correct, can't risk settling the timing over advanced.....even though it's so simple to do. Thank you all for your help and replies. Fingers crossed for me
Fingers x'ed Have you had a read through ratwell? I'm sure you have but just in case... http://www.ratwell.com/technical/FAQ.html scroll to 1.37 down the rhs where he discusses timing for max advance & offers some advice relating to distributor type & engine. Obviously everything else has to be in a good state of tune with regards to tappets, plug gaps, breathing etc so it's always back to basics
First thing I'd be doing is a compression test, no amount of fiddling with anything else will help if you've got a cylinder down on compression!
