2ltr type 4 help

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by Technohippy, Sep 20, 2011.

  1. Hiya,

    I've recently adopted a new VW to look after... late bay with one of those god awful type 4 pancake engines in it... happily skittles the van along on the flat but slightest incline and its down to 40 and struggling on motorways... might as well be a 1200 type 1 in the back.... seriously.... its dreadful...

    my guess is its not had a timing light near it or any attention paid to the valves in years...

    so could someone give me the service settings please? gaps, clearances, dwell angles the lot.... as I've no manual for the stupid things...

    if that don't work it will be toys out the pram and anyone wanna swap the engine and box for a 1600 tp setup... :)
     
  2. points gap is 0.4
    valve clearance is 0.15 for inlet and exhaust
    plug gap 0.6
    dwell is 44-50 deg
     
  3. I thank you :) Karma for you :)
     
  4. MorkC68

    MorkC68 Administrator

    :ttiwwp:
     
  5. I have to say, the type 4 is an awesome engine if looked after. Lasts longer than a type 1 too, but parts are pricier.... (in general, dont shoot me!)

    Valves are .15 I believe, providing they are not hydraulic (good guide on here) should be a sticker on the top of the fan shroud.

    Get a timing gauge if your has been removed and get a white dot on the notch on the back of the pulley. Time to 7.5 BTDC.

    check points (chuck em out and get petronix if you can) make sure you have a vac dizzy of the correct spec. 009 will be arse on toast on that engine!

    biggest issue - make sure there are NO air leaks anywhere and that all the pipes are in place to the right places. Put up a photo and I will help you check, or go to www.ratwell.com Particularly check the air pipe on top of the air filter is going to the T junction on the roof. Check the right-angle connectors on the bottom of tyhe manifold are not split (use wd 40 to test) JK sell replacements. Make sure the 2 little pipes go to the hot/cold valve

    Make sure the horns are properly clipped to the top of the carbs and sealing properly.

    Now the Solex PDSIT 32/34 carbs - check for play in the spindles. Get refurbed if excessive. Check the pilot vlave(s) are working - leave ignition on and pull/replace wires - check for clicking. Carbs are a sod to setup - most garages dont understand that they are not twin carbs, they are 1 carb shared across 2 devices, with common air-metering (all those weird metal and braided pipes joing them)

    Other than that, usual stuff - coil, leads, plugs etc.

    Oh, and MOST IMPORTANT!! Check fuel lines - Tank > Filter > Pump > Carbs. no more filters in engine bays please! Also the little joiner pipe up in the wheel well - causes smells when cornering if split!

    Loss of power up hill will probably be an air leak, silly little pipe OR fuel starvation - if the pump is not working efficiently, you may have to replace (good luck finding a type 4 one, but I believe T25 might fit - I have a bag with 3 of them in which I have never got around to fitting!)
     
  6. I agree with everything apart from Petronix... it is, in my expereince of most cases of rough running type2s, the cause of most of the problems, whipped off and replaced with points problems seem to vanish.
     
  7. Im over in stortford if you need a hand on sunday or anything..

    I have a "haynes" yuck manual if u want to borrow it...
     
  8. How strange. Mine starts first catch with Petronix. Horses for courses, I guess.

    Hope you enjoyed the rest of my post though.

    Ade.
     
  9.  
  10. yes K +1 Ade :)
     
  11. lol @ Karma comment :D

    Cheers, Ade.
     
  12. When you've set it up properly and a good service, you will be supprised just how good the type 4 engine is. O0
     
  13. 0.6 inlet, 0.8 exhaust. That's what mine is set to, but I do have hydraulic tappets. If your fuel pump isn't up to scratch fit an electric pump and blank off where the mechanical one was.
     
  14. I have in my toolbox a Pierbgurg rotary pump that I bought from GSF for about £50 when I thought my pump might be knackered.

    As fitted by Fido Dido to his bus. However, I found that my fuel starvation issue was down to a glass fuel filter in the engine bay that was bending and crushing the fuel pipe. Guess who fitted it? :-[

    If I ever have to fit this pump to the van, do I need a pressure regulator?

    Also, I heard that the way to blank off pump was with a small length of pipe from inlet to outlet.. correct?

    If anyone ever deciphers that link on setting up the carbs (I dont have retard on my 76 wtf?) please let me know I will buy you a good dinner if you do mine :)

    Ade.
     
  15. Honky

    Honky Administrator

     
  16. Urrr.... maybe. Will dig it out and have a look some time. Fido has Dells anyway so think he does have regulators and all that stuff.
     
  17. http://thelatebay.com/index.php?topic=1125.0

    clearances are the same for inlet and exhaust. Nowt wrong with 009 on this engine, nowt wrong with electronic ignition either.

    Type 4's are misunderstood and maligned by most. Best kept secret and vastly superior to the 1930's design of the type 1 engine
    :)
     
  18.  
  19. big thank you to you all for your advice and links, especially aussie bay... that thread was invaluable.... :)

    pleased to report that the trainee Mrs Hippy's bay now pulls like a train, I think the main culprits may have been the 4 finger tight spark plugs and the 12 degress AFTER TDC timing!!! Honestly, I don't know how the thing was even running!!!
     

Share This Page