1st time stripping & rebuilding 1600 engine

Discussion in 'Mech Tech' started by VW-Pete, Sep 5, 2018.

  1. Curil-T will be fine. Or Wellseal.
     
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  2. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

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  3. I used paper gaskets with the brown sticky smells great Permatex recommended in the Tom ‘Bloody’ Wilson book. Holding fast to date .


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
     
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  4. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    I can’t find ‘brown sticky smells great’ in the Permatex product range. :)
     
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  5. Different catalogue perhaps...
     
  6. Hi all, got my flywheel off. Found these 2 prongs sticking up. You can see they have rubed against the rear of the case. Any idea what they are for? Can I just tap them back flush with the flywheel?

    Also I only have 2 end shims rather than 3. Is this anything to be concerned about? DSC_1687.JPG DSC_1686.JPG
     
  7. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    The roll pins could be shortened but you shouldn’t have to and it doesn’t look like they have rubbed recently.First check the bearing isn’t moving in the case, then set the end float with three shims.

    To check for bearing movement, remove one of the shims and refit the flywheel, then lever the flywheel in and out – it shouldn’t move, if it does the bearing is loose in the case.
    EDIT: Add, not remove shims to lock the bearing.

    Interesting heat marks on the flywheel.
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2019
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  8. Thanks, think I'm going mad those pins haven't rubbed in a long time. Pic before I cleaned up the rear of the case confirms this. You can also see the oil seal wasn't pushed in far enough hence the leak.

    Not sure I fully understand the bearing test you have discribed. Remove just one shim then fully torque up the flywheel? Then test for end float? Surley with one shim removed there will be an increase in movement?
    DSC_1684.JPG
     
  9. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    Oops yes, sorry about that, a bit of brain fade after a drink or two. Of course you add a shim to lock the bearing.
     
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  10. Thanks for that. I found some other tests for the bearing when searching on hear and i think i'm fine.

    Double checked and I a have the correct 3 shims not 2 so I fitted a new seal then torqued it all back up. I bolted a flat steel bar across the back of the flywheel and used feeler gauges to measure end float got bang on 0.1mm checked several times in different places always 0.1mm. I believe the range is 0.07 - 0.13mm not sure if I should re-shim to bring it closer to one end of the range?

    I think i am pretty much finished now. just need to fit and fire her up any thing you would do before starting for the first time?

    reading previous threads i think remove spark plugs and crank over until oil light goes out then try to start?
     
  11. I’d imagine the endfloat would be fine.

    As you say, plugs out, crank it over till the oil light goes out.
     
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  12. 77 Westy

    77 Westy Supporter

    End float seems fine, don’t shim it too tight.

    You haven’t disturbed the bottom end so just fire it up, or crank it with plugs out to build up oil pressure if you want.
     
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  13. Hi all finally found some spare time and got the engine back in the van.

    As I dont have an engine stand I left the last few bits of tinwear that go under the engine until after the engine was fitted. Thinking access would be much easier. Is it actually possible fit these with a stock exhaust system in place? I'm guessing the heat exchangers and therfore whole exhaust will have to come off first? Pic attached
     

    Attached Files:

  14. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    You can get the under tin on and off with the heat exchangers on the bus. BUT the front screws of the under tins are almost impossible to get at, as the screws are 'above' the upper tinware. By all means leave off the bit where the thermostat goes, but I would fix the front edges of the lower sled tins first.
    I have unhappy memories of making short m6 hex head bolts and doing up the left hand under tin, taking ages.
    The right hand one has worse access for the screw, there are three layers of tin meeting and one screw goes completely through a hole in the top layer , then holds the lower layers together.

    If I want to get under the engine while it is sitting on the floor, I just lift a cylinder head and put a length of 50mm square wood that side under the base of the engine.
    Then do the same the other side. Now theres room to fit the lower tins.

    Although its at my limit, I know that once the engine is about 150mm off the floor, I can lift it into the back of a Peugeot 307SW by myself. (Without alternator/ carburettor but with heads and flywheel fitted)
     
    Last edited: May 26, 2020
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  15. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    I seem to remember having to take the heat exchangers back off. :thinking:
     
  16. Put as much of the undertin on as you can (ie all of it) with the engine out, including the curved pieces. They’ll be a right beggar to fit with engine in, if it’s possible at all.
     
  17. mikedjames

    mikedjames Supporter

    There was as they say on the internet a strange trick to wriggling the metal in. But its easier working out from the engine block, raising it up a bit to get underneath.

    It may also be a good idea not to totally tighten up the heat exchangers you may need wiggle room to put on the exhaust.. if you have a new EMPI exhaust you need all of the tricks of bending jumping loosening and swearing and hammering. And then again when the exhaust hits the support bar..

    It can be easier to get the support bar on then the exhaust on the bench.
    Big wide handle bars to guide the engine in..
     
  18. That's good to know you managed it. is that with stock heat exchangers? I can't see any way if getting them in without removing the heat exchangers and therfore the whole exhaust system has to come off then the pain of refitting it with the engine back in the van. I will take another look over the weekend.
     
  19. Fit all the tin, or it'll be a nightmare. You can refit the h/es (and the whole exhaust) with the engine out.
     
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  20. Zed

    Zed Gradually getting grumpier

    There isn't a way. It's like the people who say it's possible to remove the firewall with the engine in place. Sure it is if you mangle everything.
     
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