Thanks, looks like iv done all the donkey work and just need to bolt it all back together. Would you refurb the carb as its out? Its a stock solex dual port. Any kit you would recommend? It seemed to run fine before the rebuild.
Hi all, i'm just about to crack the flywheel nut so that i can replace the oil seal. Looks like it been leaking for years. iv got a 400Nm impact gun so should be OK undoing it. Would a 12 sided socket be OK? or do you think it will round off the nut? (£20 for a six sided socket another tool that i will only use twice though) do i need to worry about shims and end play? i'm only doing a top end re-build. Engine run fine before with no knocking sound. If i pull the flywheel back and fourth i can't feel any movement.
Endfloat sounds ok, but worth checking with a dial gauge after you've put the flywheel back on. I'd go for a black impact socket if you've got one. Sometimes the nuts rattle off, sometimes they put up a fight. Need a flywheel lock.
Thanks. Iv got a cheap empi flywheel lock hopefully it's man enough. Iv got a black socket suitable for impact wrench but it's 12 sided not six. Just worried it will chew the corners of the flywheel nut. Also is it possible to make a homemade clutch alignment tool? Don't want to buy one just to use once in my lifetime.
Yep, if you're creative. Bit of dowel with electrical tape round it. Or the cheapy plastic ones are fine. Flywheel locks look alarming - are they going to snap the corner of the case off? - but seem to work. Put it on the strongest looking stud/bolt on the case. A rattle gun will be gentler than swinging on a breaker bar.
All another no doubt silly question but better safe than sorry. When installing the cylinder head studs into the engine block does anyone know a torque setting? both Bentley and Haynes don't cover this. I double nutted the studs screwed them fully into the block and them gave them a light nip up if that makes sense? looking online many people so you don't want to fully thread them into the block to allow for some heat expansion. any one got any thoughts on this? also i need to order a new clutch are the Sachs kits the ones to go for?
Once the stud has bottomed out that’s it, backing it off slightly is better than nipping it up, but no more than ¼ turn. Sachs clutches are fine.
As above, just nip them down. They’re not going to come out. Worth making sure you’ve got the right ones in the right holes, as they’re different lengths.
Thank you for the reply. Do you know what the logic behind not fully tighten them up is? i would have thought you would want as many threads engaged as possible and nipping them up would prevent them from possible vibrating loose? i'm guessing as its a magnesium case there is some weird science behind it.
You do want as many threads engaged as possible and when the stud has bottomed out all the threads are engaged, tightening it further simply preloads the threads before the nut is torqued up. If you’re worried that they might vibrate loose you could use Loctite.
Wish i had paid more attention to your no silicon comment. I ran a 1mm bead of permatex grey Silicon gasket maker (picture below) but you can see it has squished out everywhere and probable done the same inside the block. found this completely by accident https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?t=148671. some else has done the exact same thing as me however they started their engine and a small bead of silicon has broken off blocked an oil passage and destroyed his engine. my engine is fully rebuilt but not back in the van so looks like i need to pull it apart and get rid of this silicon before it cases a potential problem or even engine failure. out of curiosity why does no one use the paper gaskets as VW did? its what the Bentley and Haynes manual says to use.
Real pain, but I’d do the engine again. Silicone “worms” not so bad in the wide oil gallerys, but not good if they find their way into the oiler holes on the crank, etc. Laurie Pettit used to rant about them. Grit your teeth and do it . I assume folk don’t use the paper gaskets as sealant is quicker and better. No special reason.
Yep its a pain but nothing compared to blowing up my engine. Think i will just use the paper gaskets in that case. looking online quite a few trashed engines thanks to blobs of silicon breaking loose. Any idea when you would use it? seems the potential for harm would far outweigh any good it could do.
Paper gaskets shouldn’t be used because they tend to compress. Not only have you used the wrong sealant but you have also used far too much, all you need is a smear. That engine on shoptalkforums.com is almost unbelievable. Incidentally, what sealant did you use on the casing split line?
There’s not really a big problem with silicone if you only use the smallest amount – a 1mm bead is more than 10 times too much. Best leave silicone to the plumbers.
Thanks for the reply. sorry to be a pain but could you post a link to the correct sealant? people said Permatex early in the thread so i brought some oil resistant 270c rated stuff thinking that should be fine? but there are hundreds of brands different colours etc. I didn't split the case so i'm OK.
Well, they’d use PTFE tape... Another thing Laurie used to rant about is folk who used so much sealant on the case halves, it used to widen out the main bearing webs by a couple of thou. Less is more!
